Backing question

[lesken2011]

When I started this endeavor of bow building...after reading as much as I could on the subject, I searched for the most readily available source for materials as I could and found that I could get red oak boards with straight grain from local stores like Home Depot and Lowes. After picking up a dozen or so, over a period of several months, I ran across a local source for Hickory and Hard Maple boards. Obviously, after making a few bows, I prefer the hickory, so far, (I haven't tried the hard maple, yet) since it is so forgiving....and boy do I need forgiving, right now. I would like to use up all the red oak, though since I have it, but would feel more comfortable with backing it. I know there are all types of backings out there to use, but one of the TBB volumes discusses linen canvas in various weights. It also mentions a bowyer that uses 7 oz. linen on his bows and over draws the 28" bows to 31" before he ships them. The book goes on to say that, depending on the weight you choose, the linen can relieve the back of 15 to 25% of the tension load without over powering the belly. I guess what I'm saying is I can order some linen and have enough for several bows without too much expense, or use heavy brown contractor's paper (which I can get from the local hardware store). I'm not sure how it compares to linen. My goal is to get the most protection at the least cost since I will probably be giving these bows away. I don't want them blowing up on someone, if I can avoid it.

[Pat B]

Linen is sold by the yard and for bow backings is relatively cheap. Check out a local cloth store. You might be able to find linen blouses of slacks at Good Will or other thrift stores.  The brown paper is anpther good option. Brown grocery bag paper is very good and when mixed with glue is very tough and strong. Silk is another option. Silk neck ties work well and you get a design with your backing.

[osage outlaw]

You could use FG drywall tape.  That would be low cost, but not very primitive.

[Pat B]

I never understood the dry wall tape thing. Its ugly and I don't see how it gives much protection being a wide mesh. Paper dry wall tape would be better IMO.

[lesken2011]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I have used the drywall tape, before. It worked OK, but I'm trying to use more traditional methods (as I put in my order via the internet... ).


Pat B, I know I can probably pic up some linen cloth at the local Salvation Army or Goodwill stores (I got 2 great leather trench coats for handle leather from there dirt cheap the other day), but wouldn't it be more protective to use a 5 to 10 oz linen canvas to best protect the bow? I mean, if it relieves the bow back of much of the tension, the more the better, right? I know weight is an issue, but if you keep the backing in the bending part of the limbs and stiffen the tips, a little, that would offset some of the loss in speed due to the increase in mass? Maybe I'm over thinking this? Remember, I'm discussing a borderline wood....red oak.

[Bernal]

Why not use hickory backing? I'm just finishing a hickory backed red oak ELB and it's worked out great.

Here's a good source for 7.1oz 100% linen at $6.27 a yard... http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&menu=f&menu=f&fabric_id=15

[lesken2011]

I hate to use up my hickory for these red oak bows. Besides, I don't have a good enough band saw to cut thin strips even for backing. As soon as I sell some of these old Bear and Damon Howatt recurves I have, maybe I can afford a 14". The 9" I have now can't cut a straight line and resawing is a joke. Of course, part of that is operator inexperience, I'm sure.


By the way, thanks for the linen source. I was about to pay a lot more.

[Pat B]

The heavier the backing material the more glue it will absorbe the more physical weight you are adding to the bow which will rob some of the cast. Any of the materials I suggested are plenty strong enough for bow backings. Once you add the glue and it sets up the resulting backing is stronger than its components are seperately just like FG. The cloth and the resin are both strong but add them together and they are way stronger than both components.

[lesken2011]

Thanks, Pat. While we're on the subject, I know many of you recommend hide glue or Knox gelatin glue for bow backings. Don't you have to worry more about them than say, TBIII, in moist or high temp situations or once the bow is finished and sealed, it doesn't matter?

[Pat B]

Once the bow is finished you shouldn't have to worry about natural glues but IMO TB glue is the best for cloth backings. If you worry about the darker color even Elmer's Glue all works well too.
 When I'm backing a bow I like to add a thin layer of glue to the bows back and let it dry completely. Then glue the backing down. The first glue layer acts like a vapor barrier to help prevent moisture from entering the wood.

[sweeney3]

I like TB3 for the moisture resistance quality.  If you were trying to be 100% primitive, it obviously wouldn't be the best choice, but I fudge a bit and use it with good results.

[lesken2011]

Thanks. I have a brand new bottle and have used it before for riser glue ups. I love staying with something familiar...although, as I become more experienced, I'm sure I'll test some of the other stuff, too. Thanks for the help, ya'll.

[PAHunter]

Hey lesken2011,

I got 72 inches of a medium linen from a fabric store for about 14 bucks and it's enough for probably 10 bows easy.  I've used it on 2 red oak boards with good results.  Here's a vid I made if ur interested.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SuVysRN8e8



Best of luck!

[PAHunter]

BTW if you decide to paint or sharpie the linen do it after it is glued on.  Much easier!

[lesken2011]

Thanks, PA Hunter. I watched the video and it answered a few more questions I had. Thanks for the tips and the response.