Author Topic: Questions about heat/deflex/set in a laminated ELB...  (Read 1006 times)

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Offline Bernal

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Questions about heat/deflex/set in a laminated ELB...
« on: February 17, 2012, 01:24:54 pm »
I've been reading up on using heat to remove set or simply to put in some reflex to counter expected set. Pearl Drums had a great post about his experiment with removing set from an old bow. But so far, I haven't found any clear mention of using heat on the belly of laminated bows and there in lies my question.

I've finished my initial tillering of a hickory backed red oak English long bow and just glued on some horns. Next I'll need to shape the horn nocks and get ready for a final tweaking of the tiller. Given that this is my first attempt at a laminated bow, I made a noobie mistake and glued in about 7/8's inch of deflex because the clamps pulled the limbs down as it was drying. Then during the tillering the bow gained another inch and 3/8's for a total of about 2 1/4 inches of set.

An interesting discovery, and maybe this is just because I'm new to bow making, was that if I did a quick reverse flex of the bow of even just a few inches, the bow would return to the 7/8's inch of deflex/set and stay there until flexed in the normal direction at which point it would stay at 2 1/4 inches.

Finally, the questions... can I use heat on the belly to induce some reflex or at least remove the the current deflex/set? The lamination was done with Titebond III, would I be risking future delamination by heating it? And if I do heat it, how do I know when I've heated it enough?

Thanks.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Questions about heat/deflex/set in a laminated ELB...
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2012, 01:29:13 pm »
TBIII doesnt care for heat. URAC would allow some serious heat. I say finish your bow, learn from it and enjoy its string follow smoothness!
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.