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Author Topic: Ash bow build ( an experiment in wood torture ) finished tiller  (Read 20546 times)

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blackhawk

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2012, 08:41:21 am »
If you incured set from floor tillering then your wood is too wet...simple as that. It doesn't matter where your set incured and if you had a lil too much bend in the fades. If it was dry it wouldn't have taken set at that point in the ball game. And if your tillering per mass then your gonna come in too light after it dries out,and it will be susceptible to breakage. And if this was a bow I was making for someone and selling it to them,then I would wait and let it dry out. It only takes a couple ounces from floor tiller to finish tiller if only removing wood from the belly. And your already almost at finish tiller,and you'll only lose a half ounce at the most there,and an ounce or two removing width from your tips at the most. And since you have 5 to go it tells me your wood is too wet. Call me a jerk n hate me,but it is what it is. Green ;)
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Offline Pappy

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2012, 08:46:51 am »
I promise you it is still wet/green. :o If you are determed to carry on then go for it but be aware you aren't going to come out with the best bow the wood could give you if you would just give it some time. :) Been where you are and done what you have done and learned better. :) :) Good luck .There are ways to quick dry wood but none better than time.Patients.  :)
   Pappy
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Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2012, 09:59:53 am »
Trust me. Been there. Done that. You're stave is wet. Wet wood cracks if heat treated. Jawge
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #18 on: February 16, 2012, 10:31:56 am »
I say carry on. That way when this comes up again you will have experinece to answer the question for somebody else. I learned ALLOT doing what others told me not to do because they already have.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline sleek

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #19 on: February 16, 2012, 03:04:07 pm »
OK I'm sorry, I will stop for a while. Onto the dash of my truck it goes. And Gosh Blackhawk, your such a jerk ;) joking of course. I can be a bit hard headed sometimes. Is it to late for this bow to be a good one? Am I wrong for thinking the option to pike it is there if I come up under mass and retiller once dry?

Sorry for being such a nuckle head guys and thanks for the posts everyone. What I will do in the meanwhile is just rough out a few more bows. Impatience is what some would call it, but really its not. I just cant stand to not be working on a bow all the time. Waiting sucks. Think I will break out some honey locust and play with that. Thanks a gain, feeling kinda sheepish right now.....
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #20 on: February 16, 2012, 03:06:11 pm »
Let it dry for at least 4-6 weeks. Heat treat it with 2" of reflex and make a killer bow. Just dont bend it anymore until its dry. The more you bend green wood the more it collapses and wont come back.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline sleek

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #21 on: February 16, 2012, 09:26:03 pm »
That is what I will do. Got it drying right now. Thinking of making a solar stave cure box....
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Tread softly and carry a bent stick.

Dont seek your happiness through the approval of others

blackhawk

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #22 on: February 16, 2012, 09:36:49 pm »
if you have forced air in your house then just stick it in a heating duct,and carefully monitor it each day
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Offline sleek

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #23 on: February 17, 2012, 01:54:48 am »
!
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Tread softly and carry a bent stick.

Dont seek your happiness through the approval of others

mikekeswick

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #24 on: February 17, 2012, 04:38:05 am »
Forget the reflexed mid-limb idea. Ash won't hold the reflex without a backing.
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Offline sleek

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #25 on: February 17, 2012, 04:46:10 am »
What about mild flipped tips?
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Tread softly and carry a bent stick.

Dont seek your happiness through the approval of others

mikekeswick

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #26 on: February 17, 2012, 05:13:30 am »
All that is going to do is decrease working limb thus increasing stress without the option to widen the limbs so that they can take it.
It won't help the outcome. If you want to make a 'flipped tip' bow then you need to design it as one from the start.



























































































































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Offline sleek

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2012, 09:26:26 pm »
Ok, so let me ask you this, how does ash heat treat?
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Tread softly and carry a bent stick.

Dont seek your happiness through the approval of others

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #28 on: February 17, 2012, 10:32:57 pm »
Its a must in my book.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Eric Garza

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Re: Ash bow build
« Reply #29 on: February 17, 2012, 10:36:31 pm »
Ash heat treats beautifully, in my opinion, but only when the heat treating is done to dry wood that hasn't been damaged by excessive strain while it was still wet. You can heat treat your bow, but you aren't going to fix the set with a heat treat at this point. You damaged the wood when you bent it green, and damaged wood will stay damaged regardless of what else you do.

The order of operations that I use on all dense whitewoods that I commonly use (white ash, white oak, hickory, hard maple) is:
1. Cut stave
2. Reduce stave to about 1 inch thick x 2+ inches wide x full length
3. Allow stave to dry for 6 months
4. Reduce stave to rough-bow dimensions
5. Allow stave to dry for at least 1 year, ideally longer
6. Reduce stave to final width dimensions
7. Tiller until the bow can be braced, then heat treat the bow's belly
8. Keep tillering, heat treat when you reach 1/2 draw, then again at full draw, then again when you reach your desired draw weight at full draw

I can usually minimize and occasionally eliminate set with this process. As someone else noted above, there's no substitute for patience. I'm not a fan of force drying anymore. I've gotten good bows from staves that were forced dry, but all of my great bows came from staves that were air-dried for years.
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