Author Topic: Finally worked up enough courage for my first arrows...  (Read 1659 times)

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Offline oscar3b

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Finally worked up enough courage for my first arrows...
« on: February 06, 2012, 01:29:58 am »
Hey everyone!  So like I said I finally, after several starts with no follow through, decided that I was going to make me some arrows.  I have ash square shafts cut and ready but then decided that rounding them out was too much for my first arrow.  After thinking about it I decided to just go to Lowe's and buy me some round dowels.

Several people had told me to watch out for oak shafts because they'll shatter if the grain isn't straight.  After looking I could only find a few so I went with 3/8" poplar instead.  I know they are not the best by any means but I know someone who has a few they made and they worked well so I went that way instead.   I picked the straightest 12 I could find and cut them to 30". Then I spined them as best I could with my wife's 2# dumbbell and a ruler.  I think I got pretty close to accurate measurements (up to 32nds of an inch).  They all fell between 55-65# using the only formula I could find online.  The site said it was 26/deflection in inches = spine.  Does anyone know if that formula is correct?    I will post pictures soon as to how they turn out.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2012, 03:26:57 pm by oscar3b »
Ben

Berea, Kentucky
27" draw
30-70# (though I want to build to 125 one day)

Offline Matt S.

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Re: Finally worked up enough courage for my first arrows...
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2012, 06:44:00 pm »
Hey Ben, just saw this post.
I can show you my spine tester next time you come over. I haven't shown it to you yet because it isn't exactly pretty and I haven't spent enough time fine tuning it to be very happy with it.
Just as important to an arrow spine is the arrow weight. That's a LOT easier to figure out. I have a little digital scale that can weigh in grains, perfect for matching arrow weight to bow weight.

As for the formula for arrow spine, I think you're correct about the 26/deflection. You also have to account for arrow length and point weight. Justin Snyder sums it up better than I could from this post about spine: http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1910.0.html
For recurves and high performance longbows add 5-10# bow weight. For selfbows, subtract 5-10# bow weight. For high performance recurves add 10-15# bow weight. For 160 grain points add 5# bow weight. For 190 grain points ad 10# bow weight.  You heard right about reducing or increasing spine. Length affects spine by leverage. For every inch of arrow length (string grove to back of point) over 28" you need 5# more spine, for every inch under 28" you need 5# less spine.

Come on over and let's get our shaft cutting jigs made. I'll also show you my shaft tapering jig. Like most my jigs, it's an ugly cuss but gets the job done!  >:D