New here and working on my first bow.

[chasing crow]

I've backed 2 oak board bows using burlap bags and titebond 3 with good results. I really like the look, it kind of breaks up the profile. I have hunted all winter (with no luck) and every thing has held up well in all weather.

[15DLongbow]

Burlap? I actually like that idea. And i think i might have a 25'x10' laying around. And titebond 2 should be fine right?

[chasing crow]

Titebond 3 is waterproof. I hunt in a lot of wet weather so I opted for the 3. Not a good pic but here is my new hunting bow with burlap.

[15DLongbow]

that doesnt look too bad, Hopefully ill post up pics up by the end of today..  I had a we bit of a screw up so im set back a day or so but it should be back on track soon.

[15DLongbow]

Heres the progress so far, Static limbs are finished and just working on shaving down the working limbs before i get it on the Tiller.
 Also, I should apply the backing before i Tiller it right?

[Onebowonder]

Nice pic.  Those are some pretty narrow static tips.  Are they thick enough to stay tough?  Side view might help...

[k-hat]

Since it's not a working back, it's kind of up to you.  If you think the bow might lift a splinter or worse, blow, in tiller then back it before.  I've backed one after, another in the middle, both good results.

[15DLongbow]

The static limbs start at 3/4" at the base and narrow out to 1/2" at the tips While being 3/4" thick throughout, Me lightly bending the bowlimb so far doesnt seem to show any bend throughout the static limb. also, whats the best way to evenly remove wood from the working limbs? I'm using a surform but not sure if there is a better way.

Edit: The static limbs might look extra Narrow cause i Kept the working limbs wide at 2.5"

[Onebowonder]

I like my shinto rasp, but as you get down to the finer stuff I prefer a furniture scaper.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Those run outs are gonna kill that board. You are going to have to back it if you want to bend it. I suggest hickory.

[Ifrit617]

I have to disagree Pearly, I have made unbacked bows from boards with worse grain than that (but the picture is blurry so it may be worse than what i think it is).  However I am nervous that the bow will end up failing, from compression instead of tension however. I made an oak molle with a perfect tiller last summer and withing a 1000 shots it chrysaled terribly throughout the entire limb... This design is just not well suited for red oak. However mine was shorter than yours so yours may have a chance...  I would definitely NOT back that board with hickory, because this will increase the compression strain on the limbs, making them even more likely to chrysal. Good luck.

Jon

[Josh B]

Is that pic of the back or belly?  Josh

[15DLongbow]

back, and i plan on taking chasing crows Idea and Im backing it with Burlap.

[Josh B]

back, and i plan on taking chasing crows Idea and Im backing it with Burlap.

That would be a good idea.  Those run-offs would be a problem,  especially in a Molly.  Josh

[15DLongbow]

Yeah, I knew they were gonna be trouble from the beginning, if it blows then atleast I'll get some practice in right? Sadly that was the best piece i could find around here haha


Update: 2-11 I got the limbs down to the right thickness and the backing is clamped and drying. I took the day to make a Tillering tree for it, a couple 2x4's and some screws and i was done. all i have left to do on the bow is cut the nocks and start my first attempt at tillering.