Thanks so much for all the advice and encouragement. And that trick with the ellipse is excellent - I'm going to use it the next time I tiller a bow. I've heard that you can see more when you take a picture, since eyes can deceive. I did take a few at the end, but didn't check the curve, I checked that the limbs were symmetrical, which they were, perfectly. Now I know, and I can apply what I learned.
No worries about moving the post, I understand completely. Straight grain, got it. What is done when no backing is used? I'm just worried about breaking it, after having two break in my hands. Do you lightly sand the back, and keep it flat? Or should it be curved? I guess this all depends on the bow. I do know that you never, ever, want to see splinters lifting.
I got some more shooting in yesterday, and it's fantastic. I'm still rusty, it's been a while, but I managed to put every arrow in a 3 inch circle at 20 feet at full draw. And I don't have any sighting tool or even a technique. If I try to aim using points of reference, my arrows go all over the place. When I just hold the bow the way it feels natural, and pull the arrow to the place that feels right, it always seems to go where I want (roughly).
I was thinking the "hole in the bucket" song as well, I have to admit.
Thanks again, I'm looking forward to the next bow, and can't wait to share it.
Jamie
