Author Topic: CrapeMyrtle Sapling  (Read 2402 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Dictionary

  • Member
  • Posts: 717
CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« on: January 21, 2012, 01:35:31 pm »
I'm not sure if i should bother using this. Never used crapemyrtle before but i saw this straight one growing up the street from me and cut it.

There are two....knots? Intrusions?  The knots i've seen aren't usually like these. They are located In the wood at what would be midlimb for both limbs.
 I'd like to model it after a cherokee longbow. This one is about 65 inches long







Should i toss it? Or keep these knots to the side, back, or chop them off on the belly?  :-\
Thanks
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline coaster500

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,741
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2012, 01:54:27 pm »



I #1 where the knot is? I haven't built many bow but from what I've seen others do this stuff seems pretty tough? Maybe you can incorporate it into the handle?

I'd put it in the handle for the thickness and where I could reinforce it.  I don't think I'd want that one bending. I would just be a shorter bow?

The real experts will chime in soon :)



« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, 12:02:22 pm by coaster500 »
Inspiration, information and instruction by the ton and it's free,,, such a deal :)

Offline Dictionary

  • Member
  • Posts: 717
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2012, 02:00:33 pm »
Those are where the knots are.  I'm aiming for a circular tiller so i don't know if i could accomodate a knot in the handle. also if i shortened it, it wouldn't move the knots toward the handle anyways without making one limb 20 inches in length or less.  If that makes sense.
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline Bevan R.

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,691
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2012, 02:03:05 pm »
I would think the knots would handle the compression of a belly better than the tension of a back. Might also concider rawhide over the back.
Bowmakers are a little bent, but knappers are just plain flaky.

Offline Dictionary

  • Member
  • Posts: 717
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2012, 08:19:03 pm »
I don't plan on backing the bow. But i guess i'll just keep them to the belly and knock them down a bit but leave a bit more wood around them so it won't be a weak spot i guess... :-\
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline Gus

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,829
  • It's Time To Make Some Shavings!
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2012, 08:40:19 pm »
I have a bunch of Crepe Myrtle seasoning out back even now.
And I'm on the Hunt for more, as this is Crepe Myrtle Trimming time around Houston.
Also have a couple of dry staves in bow making process as well.

There are a couple of folks on this site that love it for bow wood.
Their CM bows are beautiful.

The piece you've shown looks Good to me.

-gus
"I taught him archery everyday, and when he got good at it he throw an arrow at me."

Conroe, TX

Offline randman

  • Member
  • Posts: 647
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2012, 08:46:34 pm »
If you are going for a Cherokee style flat bow (bendy handle D shaped bow) and you put those knots on the belly side, they'll be gone once you carve to the center of the stave. You'll probably be past the center of the stave on at least 2/3 of each limb by the time you get it to floor tiller. Even if you had a stiff handle they still shouldn't be an issue if you carve them off with the belly wood.
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.

Offline Dictionary

  • Member
  • Posts: 717
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2012, 09:09:05 pm »
If you are going for a Cherokee style flat bow (bendy handle D shaped bow) and you put those knots on the belly side, they'll be gone once you carve to the center of the stave. You'll probably be past the center of the stave on at least 2/3 of each limb by the time you get it to floor tiller. Even if you had a stiff handle they still shouldn't be an issue if you carve them off with the belly wood.

Ok i was thinking that i could cut past them. Thanks for clarifying this. Hopefully i'll be posting pics of a new bow within a couple of months after i attempt to quick dry this wood. We'll see  ::)

"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline ken75

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,886
  • crepe myrtle is my "yella wood"
Re: CrapeMyrtle Sapling
« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2012, 02:36:28 am »
you would be best served to make that the belly side , ive built some cm bows with up to 6 knots in the back without issue but that looks a lil different than most. im building one now that has a long area like that about midlimb . these pics are of it with the bark removed and showing the placement . i let you know if anything happens to it should finish tomorrow if the weather is ok.