Well, I almost threw in the draw knife

[Jeremy Holden]

So I got this big Osage stave for Christmas.  I started working on it a few days ago and about quit.  The bark had been left on when the ends were sealed to dry.  Holy crap that stuff is hard to get off. 

Eventually it all came off, including 6" of the end because I was too tired to continue.  Well today I was able to chase the ring I needed to use, got the profile carved in, and the limbs bending with a little pressure against the floor.

So, what next?  Get a long string on it and pull to my desired weight?  I think that's what I've read.  Sound right?  Let me know what you think...

-Jeremy

[artcher1]

Where has your stave been stored? Do you know if it's moisture content is in fact low enough to continue? If you can't answer those questions then it's best to store your roughed out bow in the driest part of your house for several weeks before continuing. Lay it flat so that the M/C equalizes in both limbs. Luck.........Art

[Pat B]

You might want to seal the back just in case too. If it does still have moisture it will check on the back as the moisture escapes.
  If all the above is covered use a long string(only slightly longer than the bow) and exercise the wood with short pulls, no more than 4" of tip movement. After about 20 of so pulls, pull it and hold it long enough to view the bend in the limbs. Have a pencil handy to mark and weak spots or areas. Remove a little wood from the belly except for the marked spots and exercise it again and check the bend.

[mullet]

You said, "a big stave", how big? if it's still full size, you have a ways to go.

[Jeremy Holden]

The original stave was about 74" in length, roughly 4" across and about 3" deep.  I wound up splitting it in two yesterday.  It was already checked the length of the stave right down the middle.  So I figured I would save myself some carving and split it.  It is now drawn down to the rough dimensions of what I'd like to persue.

In regards to moisture content, I haven't a clue.  I think I may go home (at the firehouse today) seal it and wait a few weeks.  I did have a check in the back of it that caused me to chase three ring's down.

In regards to where and how it was stored, not sure.  It appeared to have been dried for some time.  I believe it was cut earlier last year.  The ends and belly were sealed.  Bought it from a gentlemen on Trudging.

So, it sounds to me like I'll wait and pick up on it later.  Thanks for the insight guy's.

-Jeremy

[Pat B]

Once you get it to the bending stage you should be able to tell if it is ready by whether it feels springy or it feels sluggish.

[TKMbows]

I have made a few bows with Osage, but the wood around my cabin is mostly hickory and oak. I know for a fact that hickory takes the longest to get the moisture content down. With hickory you can get away with roughing out a bow and then leaving it to dry before finishing the tiller, but I think with Osage you have done the right thing by waiting a little longer.

                                                                                                                                                                                      Ty  McTier

[Jeremy Holden]

I should have thrown the draw knife away.  I finally got the ring chased, thank goodness for a good set of scrapers.  Those scrapers are an amazing tool.  However, I took to much wood off of the belly and now it's only pulling about 25#.  No way that will make a hunting bow.

I have the other half left that is still thick but narrow.  So, if I want a 60" bow, tip to tip, and 55-60# at 28", how think do you think the limb's should be?  I know it will vary, I'm looking for ball park opinions.  Thanks guys.

-Jeremy

[osage outlaw]

How long is it?  You said the stave was 74" long.  You might be able to cut a couple inches off the ends and gain some lbs. back.

[gstoneberg]

I have the other half left that is still thick but narrow.  So, if I want a 60" bow, tip to tip, and 55-60# at 28", how think do you think the limb's should be?  I know it will vary, I'm looking for ball park opinions.

Jeremy,

2 things.  First, making bows is as much art as it is science.  There isn't a formula for the most part.  Even if we saw your stave, the answer you would get for the thickness is..."as thick as it needs to be."  Prepare the back first, then reduce the belly to get the bow bending.  Make your limbs taper gently in depth from their thickest coming out of the fades (or in the handle if bendy) to the tips.  If you get the bow bending and then have to go down a ring or 2 you'll miss weight every time.  Second, a 60" tip to tip (58" nock to nock)  selfbow that pulls 60# is not a beginners bow, especially with a stiff handle.  It will take very good tillering to pull that off.  If you go bendy handle it won't be quite as big a stretch but will still take good tillering.  I personally feel new bowyers should keep their bows in the 65" to 68" n2n range unless they have an experienced bowyer to help.  If  you're anywhere near Dallas I'd be happy to help you build your bow.  If you're totally on your own I think you should consider a longer bow for your first hunting weight bow.  Having said that I love the short bows too and build as many as I can, I'm just saying they're tough for a new bowyer.

Good luck,
George

[Jeremy Holden]

George and others,

Thank you for the advice and sound judgement.  I'm to far into it to get a longer bow out of the stave.  I have already cut it down.  I'll work the next stave and see what I get.  Again, thank you.

-Jeremy

[Dazv]

go very very  very slowly with it the more time you put into it the more time you will get out of it. Just spending a few more hours crafting you bow could be the difference between a bow that shoots for 10 days and a bow that shoots for ten years plus.