If anyone has ever processed sinew themselves then they know how much work it involves. Yet there is a really good reason why I go through the trouble and process leg sinew than to just have people hang on to the backstrap sinew then comb that out. It's far superior to back strap sinew. In almost every way. My sinew when I start is either a foot or longer. There is sorta a myth out there the back strap sinew is much longer and easier to use. especially for fletching arrows. True it may be a few inches longer at it's longest point but as you move to the side the size decreases. The same is true in a sense with leg sinew. There is a lot more sinew in one leg piece that one backstrap piece. I use leg sinew over back sinew for fletching all of my atlatl darts. I also use it when I make knifes from stone and antler and also for necklaces. All you have to do is wet it. It only takes a few seconds. Then rap it around the feather and the shaft or whatever your using. Then let it dry. As it dries it shrinks and makes a really strong bond. Then I usually use a little beeswax to water proof it. I use to use pine pitch when appling my stone points to the forshaft of my Atlatl darts. I tested it out once just using sinew. I don't use pine pitch any longer unless for looks. I promise you will not find better sinew anywhere. Over the last eight years of selling and trading sinew and much trial and error I've learned a few things to make my sinew a superior product. If your not totally sold on it just let me know and I'll pay for you to ship back to me. So I hope I have you convinced. A note for beginner bow makers is 95% of the bowyers I know think 2 oz is plenty to back a bow. That's between 6 and 10 tendons. Thanks for looking.
Basically what I'm looking for is softer or heat treated flint and chert. Or black or mahogany or rainbow obsidian. I'm also in need of antler, moose hide, steel strikers, braintain deer hides, moose billet, atlatl dart shafts. home made soaps. Or maybe you have something I didn't know I needed.
