ELB build along & piller tiller discussion

[Shaun]

This is by no means the only or even a "better" way to tiller, it just an option for early stage tillering. Use of band saw and edge sander is not for the faint of heart and I have ruined several pieces of wood by using power and being in a hurry. In the video of "From Billets to Bows" Glenn uses a power joiner for much of his tillering on yew bows. He took considerable flack for this and his answer was that he was making bows for a living and supporting a family. I have no such excuse, I just love to make bows and learn from experience. One definition of experience is "a long series of non fatal mistakes." I  have broken many bows in making and in use, live and learn. I broke a really nicely progressing pear flat bow last week - was not hurt and learned that even in pear a pin knot cannot be cut flush with the back ring - cut it while carefully (but not carefully enough) removing bark with a draw knife. It is my hope that we can all learn from each others methods, mistakes and triumphs. There are several bowyers on this site who have taught and inspired me. Thanks!

[adb]

Your tiller set up is very interesting. As long as it works, and you arrive at desired weight, length, and tiller profile, who cares how you get there! New ideas foster change. It looks like your bows don't take much set, so I'd say carry on!

[gstoneberg]

I think this is a really cool approach.  I've got to be honest though, from the time I saw it I've been trying to conceive a way to get a scale in play so I don't overstress the limbs.  I won't have a clue how much force I'm applying with the clamp, at least for a while.  Maybe I won't be able to put enough stress on the limbs to cause a problem and it's a non-issue.  Guess I won't know till I try it.  Can't wait.

George

[soy]

Food for thought  thanks now I have to think

[hammertime]

I like this concept-thank you for sharing-you could possibly drill a hole that a pull scale could slip through before clamping thus giving you an idea of the weight your at as well-Hammertime.

[randman]

I am definitely trying this method! Do you work the wood any while it is clamped in place (as you would working the belly while braced) so you can see the results in real time?

[bubby]

I think this is an interesting method and worth trying out, if everone allways did everything the same way we would be lucky to have candles to work by, i try to keep an open mind to new ideas, Bub

[Shaun]

Henry Ford said something along the lines of, "If I'd asked a committee of traditional thinkers what I should build, they would have said 'a faster horse'."

[bubby]

 

[Onebowonder]

@Shaun - I wish to re-ask a question that I think I know the answer to, but would appreciate clarification.  Do you work the tiller of the bow while it is in the blocks and being stressed by the bar clamp?  ...or do you remove it from clamp to remove wood and just return it to the clamp to check the progress of the tillering?

[JW_Halverson]

@Shaun - I wish to re-ask a question that I think I know the answer to, but would appreciate clarification.  Do you work the tiller of the bow while it is in the blocks and being stressed by the bar clamp?  ...or do you remove it from clamp to remove wood and just return it to the clamp to check the progress of the tillering?

Not knowing how Shaun will answer, let me tell you my experience with tillering with the bow string.  I have tillered bows while strung.  It seems I always end up with a hinge in any stiff section I have worked.  My guess is that I am not excercising the wood enough after removing wood.  I have taken wood off until I see the tiller look "correct" and somehow I get those hinges.  I just flat quit doing it.  Nowadays I unstring, tiller, restring, excercise the bow 40-50 short draws without exceeding final draw weight, and check tiller again.

[Bevan R.]

I remember reading somewhere that you should never take wood off under tension. Maybe that was just the authors opinion but it makes sense to me.

[JW_Halverson]

I remember reading somewhere that you should never take wood off under tension. Maybe that was just the authors opinion but it makes sense to me.

The only bow I know you take wood off the tension side would be a rattan bow.  Other than that, you always tiller from the compression side.  Or am I reading your post wrong, Bevan?

[Bevan R.]

Reading it wrong JW. I read somewhere to always take the string off completely when removing wood. Not to even leave it on at brace hight.

BTW, I only take rattan off on the belly, just like any other bow I make. I leave the skin as backing.

[JW_Halverson]

Ok, Bevan.  Understood.  I hate the hassle of stringing and unstringing, but I do it because I make far fewer mistakes that way.  Some shortcuts just ain't worth the trip!