Author Topic: Sapling Osage ?  (Read 2104 times)

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Offline wvarcher

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Sapling Osage ?
« on: November 13, 2011, 12:22:32 am »
Can you make an all heartwood bow out of a 4'' Osage sapling?
« Last Edit: November 13, 2011, 03:14:04 pm by wvarcher »

Offline Gordon

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2011, 02:00:54 am »
Absolutely!
Gordon

Offline wvarcher

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2011, 09:45:14 am »
Thanks, Gordon. :)

Offline Pat B

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2011, 03:27:41 pm »
...and you can make an excellent bow with a 2" sapling with the sapwood and heartwood...or with just the sapwood if it was cut and seasoned properly.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Elktracker

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2011, 11:58:16 pm »
Pat I agree I really want to get my hands on one of the saplings you speak of ;D John Strunk made one recently and its his new number one bow and I will agree it is awsome!!
my friends think my shops a mess, my wife thinks I have too much bow wood, my neighbors think im redneck white trash and they may all be right on the money!!

Josh Vance  Netarts OR. (Tillamook)

Offline wvarcher

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2011, 12:37:23 am »
Thanks everybody for responding. :)  I had just reread the "Cutting and seasoning wood" chapter of my TBB and author seems to think the sapwood of Osage is worthless.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2011, 12:56:49 am »
Most folks think the sapwood is worthless. They are missing out on a lot of good bow wood. I have made hunting weight bows with only osage sapwood. One was a 3" diameter pole and only had a pencil thick heartwood. Not as snappy as an all heartwood bow but a good bow none the less. The sapwood is more susceptable to rot so care should be taken from the time the sapling is cut.  For drying the wood I seal the ends with shellac then give the pole a few weeks to stabilize. Next I bandsaw the pole in half lengthwise. To prevent twisting and too much backset I bind the two halves back together with spacers between them. This allows for good air curculation and helps prevent twisting and uneven backset. I would rather add controlled reflex later than depend on the wood to draw up in even, untwisted reflex.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline wvarcher

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Re: Sapling Osage ?
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2011, 01:11:44 am »
Most folks think the sapwood is worthless. They are missing out on a lot of good bow wood. I have made hunting weight bows with only osage sapwood. One was a 3" diameter pole and only had a pencil thick heartwood. Not as snappy as an all heartwood bow but a good bow none the less. The sapwood is more susceptable to rot so care should be taken from the time the sapling is cut.  For drying the wood I seal the ends with shellac then give the pole a few weeks to stabilize. Next I bandsaw the pole in half lengthwise. To prevent twisting and too much backset I bind the two halves back together with spacers between them. This allows for good air curculation and helps prevent twisting and uneven backset. I would rather add controlled reflex later than depend on the wood to draw up in even, untwisted reflex.

That's a lot of good info Pat.  Thanks!