Author Topic: Help with new bow  (Read 22599 times)

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Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2011, 02:48:29 pm »
When I see that cluster knot at the tip of your tape measure and think of running a bandsaw right thru or on the edge of it I just cringe!  I think you should center the limb over that knot and accept the fact that you are going to get one good bow out of it.  If that knot was on the edge of a bow it would not likely survive tillering.

It could be wrapped with sinew, but you'd end up doing it before getting far into your floor tillering.  With that extra mass on one limb ir might unbalance the harmony of the two limbs when the string is released...one limb would kick a bit.  That's just my level of experience speaking, you have to make your own judgements. 

Other than that, she's a lovely looking stave with plenty of graceful character.   Good luck!
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Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2011, 03:54:11 pm »
Ok good info blackhawk.   I am kinda new so I did not want to lock myself in by reducing the stave before I knew what was below but I see your point.  It is a lot of work to remove so much wood.

John, I do my bows differently from blackhawk.  There are lots of ways to skin this cat.  I always go to the final ring before laying out a bow on the stave.  I want to know exactly what the top ring looks like before I lay out the bow in case there are flaws not visible further up.  I rip the wood off down to a ring or so above the chosen one going against the grain and extra width doesn't matter in that step.  Since my seasoned wood has borers, that may be over 10 heartwood rings down.  I do not find extra width to add much time to sapwood removal, though I did earlier in my bow making career.   Knots, dips and character are what add time.  I do like to narrow staves that are triangular in shape until there's enough heartwood to make a bow on the edge and I do it before doing anything else.  If I think there's enough wood to make 2 bows in a stave, I split it before I remove any wood from the back.  That way if the split tears out I haven't wasted any ring chasing energy.  I agree that in your case, you should use a bandsaw if you intend to go for 2 bows.  However, most of the time I get greedy it doesn't work and if Murphy's with me I ruin both potential staves. >:(  Looks like a nice future bow there.  Good luck. :)

George
St Paul, TX

Offline iowabow

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2011, 03:57:26 pm »
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Offline iowabow

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2011, 04:03:34 pm »





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Offline iowabow

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2011, 04:07:56 pm »









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Offline iowabow

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2011, 04:12:17 pm »




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Offline iowabow

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2011, 04:15:06 pm »
the last picture shows the side is at an angle
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Offline Primitive1

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2011, 04:19:18 pm »
In my opinion after viewing the last photo's you uploaded...stick to one bow.  There's not enough insurance that I see that would justify what would otherwise be a singular, great character bow...my two cents worth...
When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
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Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2011, 05:24:42 pm »
I always leave knots in the limb and then remove them with the draw knife if I can.  You may find the grain of the wood runs differently than you think and you can't put the wood back on once it's gone.  I do all my limb narrowing with a draw knife so I'm sure to follow the grain as much as possible.  I'd much rather have the knot in the limb with good wood around it than right on the edge.  I really like that stave!

George
St Paul, TX

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2011, 05:57:14 pm »
iowa, that looks good; that small knot  needs to be left a little wider on the limb if you can. I would also shoot it with superglue. Nice job following the long. grain. I don't lay out until the ring is chased either. I like to see what is going on first like for, example that little knot on the edge.  Jawge
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blackhawk

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #25 on: November 04, 2011, 01:12:54 am »
Your first picture was decieving and it looked like your stave was 4"+ wide,and who wants to chase a ring on that wide of a stave. Not me. Hence my statement. And I think folks misunderstood me on when and how I do my layout. Usually(but not all) the wood I've chased rings on the first or second heartwood ring was my chosen ring,hence taking the sapwood off leaves me down to a ring above,then I do my layout. And I can see plenty fine what's underneath. So let me restate I chase down to a ring above then do my layout. And if it was what I thought your width was from your first pic,then id def narrow or a halve it first before chasing.

Thanks for posting more pictures to clear it up..def only one bow in there.

Sometimes things are not as they seem at first in a post online and it can be hard to dissect a problem off of one picture and not being able to see it firsthand. Which can lead to differing opinions from folks,cus they percieve it differently.

Offline iowabow

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #26 on: November 04, 2011, 01:29:25 am »
All comments are GREATLY Appreciated.  So thank you for taking the time to help me.  I wanted to post a bunch of picture but ran out of time.  I am glad you care to help people like me with less experience.
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Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #27 on: November 04, 2011, 01:59:43 am »
Blackhawk, I didn't mean to say my way was better, just different.  I can see if you're stopping one ring above your bow you do get a good feel for any trouble.  I also agree that going for 2 on that stave is really risky.  Differing opinions are great if you ask me, it's how we learn from each other.  If my perceptions were off, it's probably because I'm not that observant.  Sorry about that.  My only caution to John is to leave a little extra width when he works the bow down to his layout lines.  Then, if the grain does something weird he'll have some leeway.

George
St Paul, TX

blackhawk

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #28 on: November 04, 2011, 02:24:40 am »
No problems George :)...sounds like we pretty much do the same thing,and are saying almost the same thing. I just wanted to clarify what I meant as what I said previously was a little vague,and I didn't want to confuse John.  ;)

Doesn't this forum have a teleport device yet,so we can instantly see someones issue or work in person firsthand?? ::)...lol :laugh:....that wood make things soooo much easier to help folks.

Offline Pappy

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Re: Help with new bow
« Reply #29 on: November 04, 2011, 08:03:17 am »
I agree it looked a lot wider,that is why I mentioned 2 stave's,With that one I wouldn't chance it plus don't think there is enough wood for 2 anyway. The knots you are showing wouldn't bother me,do be careful when you start tillering ,the deep curve[snake] will sometime be weaker right in the middle of the curve so
keep it a little thicker until you see how it is going to react,it is very easy to get a hinge at that point before you know what happened. :( :( Beautiful piece of wood, Just take your time,slow and easy on all selfbows is a good idea but mandatory on a snaky character stave. ;) :) :)
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