WIP: There are many like it but this red oak board bow is mine.

[Bitterguy]

Alright, dad ordered me a spool of black B-50 dacron and a stick of wax, once it gets in it will be time to get workin on a string and tillering

[adb]

Also, when you do get an appropriate tillerig string, it needs to be much shorter. About the same length as your stave is about right. A tillering string which is too long is a common first mistake.

[Bitterguy]

adb,  I plan on making the string longer than it needs to be and use one of del's tillering devices.

And just to take the edge off of some of the boredem while I wait I thought I might discuss and get some comments or suggestions on my plans as far as archery and hunting go:
1. Finish this bow and make arrows
2. Get my hunting license
3. Go hunting with my friends next season
4. Use the supplies from the hunting trip to make more bows
5. Go hunting again
6. Repeat 3 -5

[Bitterguy]

Alright, my string got here and I made my tillering string

But I have no idea where my rat tail went to make nocks in my bow, and i don't have a 45 degree file? has anyone else been in that situation

[Ifrit617]

You could make pin mocks quickly using a hacksaw and a rasp or even just a rasp. I make them by cutting a 45 degree cut with the hacksaw about an eighth of an inch deep on both sides then snapping it off on each side to form a rough nock. neaten this up with a rasp and some sandpaper and you got a pin nock.... Takes about 5 minutes a side.... You find many pictures of what they should look like on this sight... Good luck!

Jon

[Kpete]

Poorfolkbows is the name of the website for the "Sam Guy".  Lots of good info there.

[Parnell]

I thought you were some grumpy old dude!  Ha ha ha.
You're moving in the right direction - got any neighbors with a chain saw or friends?  They'll probably have a chain saw file you might borrow.  They're much thinner than the rat tail usually and make a better groove. 
You'll find a way, somehow.  Don't rule out pin nocks, either, I actually prefer them, but that's just me.

[Bitterguy]

Well I made nocks like I was supposed to, because as normal when I can't find something, In 2 seconds my dad does and rubs my face in it hahaha. I'm still working on del's tillering jig thing though. I also made a proper tillering tree, planning on putting pictures up sometime this week

[Justin Snyder]

Looks like you are getting there. Be patient.

[Bitterguy]

Looks like you are getting there. Be patient.

Great advice.

One question, am I tillering right?
As far as I know:
1. floor tiller until it looks and feels right
2."loose string" tiller until it can draw to the wanted draw height (29")
3. "normal string" tiller until I reach the required draw weight at the required height

[Ifrit617]

When you tiller, only use the long string until you have about 10" of tip movement. Then go to the short string or you will risk coming in underweight. Good luck.

Jon

[Parnell]

Yup, I second that.

[Bitterguy]

When you tiller, only use the long string until you have about 10" of tip movement. Then go to the short string or you will risk coming in underweight. Good luck.

Jon

Haha thanks, turns out my long string was to long so I went to make another one and I learned an important lesson, eve though I made the string right this time (last string was loose and very poorly wound) you can cut off part of a string to make it shorter but you can't stretch it if it turned out short (like it did)

[Bitterguy]

Got some tillering done, and I finally feel as if I am making some progress
Pics are with a loose string. It was hard to get on but once I got it on and pulled my bow down to 10" on my tree the string, strechted?, i guess and I could get to 20" in the effort it took for me to get to 10" before and it hangs about 5" down.

[Ifrit617]

You have a couple major problems you need to fix ASAP before bending that bow any farther or it will break. You have a major hing developing in the left limb about a third of the way down the limb. This needs to be fixed if possible by removing wood from the very stiff and flat outer two-thirds of the limb. The right limb is slightly better but the bend need to be evened up and it needs to be weakened to match the other limb. Also, get those fades transitioning smoother in to the limbs or your will risk the handle popping off. If they are faded correctly, you should not be able to tell were the fad ends and the bow begins. Good luck, take your time, and hopefully you can get a bow. Good luck!.

JON