Author Topic: tuff hickory  (Read 4403 times)

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Offline butch

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tuff hickory
« on: July 16, 2007, 10:16:11 am »
building my first 3 bows. 2hickory,1 ash. main one is 70 long,5grip1x1.5. starts at 3/8-1\2-9\16 - 5\8- 3\4-7\8  side view. width starts 1.75 down to 3\8 tips. i reduced thickness twice and i still cant bend it. do i hang it on a wall with tillering string and pully to exersize it or thin the belly more or the back.  the other hick is about the same size with 2" naturall reflex . cant EVEN move it.. ash thinner with    2" wide down to 1\2 tips.pyramid.   1x1 handle that bends . should i thicken the handle. how mutch with walnut , hickory or ash.. i hope to end up with one bow pulling 55 at 26 by 10-1-07..  howbout some old graybeard out there giveing forth dimensions and inspiration.. thanks..

Offline snedeker

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Re: tuff hickory
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2007, 10:25:02 am »
I would hang in and keep removing some wood carefully until it flexes a little more before pulling with tillering string.

Dave

Offline Pat B

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Re: tuff hickory
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2007, 11:37:01 am »
I'm with Dave on this. Just keep removing wood until you can get it to bend. With wood bows, there are no set dimentions for a certain weight like you would have with a glass bow. Each piece of wood can be as different as different species of wood.    Tillering isn't necessarily making a bow bend but the process that gets you there. By taking your time, not getting frustated(and quit if you do) you will come out with a better bow and understanding of the process.  You have plenty of time to complete a hunting bow by the date you posted if you concentrate on where the tiller is going and not worrying about how long it is taking you, you will be pleased with the outcome.    Pat.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline GregB

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  • Greg Bagwell
Re: tuff hickory
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2007, 02:15:32 pm »

What type of bow are you planning to make? Is it a pyramid with the 1.75" maintaining a constant taper on your top view down to 3/8" tips. If it is a pyramid, you can have a fairly constant limb thickness because the top view taper is allowing for the reduction in material to allow the limb to bend.

Quote
starts at 3/8-1\2-9\16 - 5\8- 3\4-7\8  side view
If these dimensions are referring to your limb thickness, you should be okay to just out of the fades have your thickness at 5/8" and maintain that measuring off the back until you run out of material. The 3/8" thickness is getting close to where your final limb thickness would be. You'll probably need to stay off mid limbs to the tips until you get out of the fades bending more.

Quote
do i hang it on a wall with tillering string and pully to exersize it or thin the belly more or the back.
The back needs to be in one grain full length if it isn't already. Don't remove any material off the back at any time after you've got it to one grain. All the removing of material during tillering needs to come from the belly or possibly the sides in some cases. Need to first get the limbs bending some by floor tillering before you put it on a tillering tree. If possible post a side-view picture so we can be sure where the material thicknesses are.
Greg

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