Author Topic: Split in backing  (Read 3660 times)

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Offline bumppo

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Split in backing
« on: October 10, 2011, 03:10:02 pm »
Any ideas on fixing this split in the bamboo backing of my warbow? 110# @ 32", I've tried gluing/clamping with Titebond wood glue but it failed as soon as I strung it. Can I just cut this out and fill with epoxy or should this go on the burn pile? I may have an answer to Dazv's question about warbow breaks soon!

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i450/wkoslo/split.jpg

Offline fishfinder401

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  • noel laflamme noellaf2@cox.net
Re: Split in backing
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2011, 03:21:46 pm »
glue it and wrap with sinew, that might hold, if not, steam it and get a new backing, no need to ruin the belly
noel
warbows and fishing, what else is there to do?
modern technology only takes you so far, remove electricity and then what

Offline Ian.

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Re: Split in backing
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2011, 03:45:40 pm »
You mite get away with gluing it with superglue and binding it, I wouldn't use sinew as that will tighten up and crush it, cord would do.

Or back it again.
ALways happy to help anyone get into heavy weight archery: https://www.facebook.com/bostonwarbowsbows/

Offline adb

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Re: Split in backing
« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2011, 11:53:39 pm »
Judging by the photo, you've sanded the node down too far, and it's failed there as a result. I've had the same problem in the past. If you sand the nodes off, you're violating the power fibers of the bamboo. If I make a bamboo backed bow these days (which is not often anymore), I barely touch the back. Light sanding to remove the rind, and that's it.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Split in backing
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2011, 01:56:47 pm »
On a hunting weight(60#mol) bow I would super glue the splinter down and wrap it with sinew or silk thread and set the wrap in glue. Not sure how it would work on a 110# bow but I think that is what I'd try.
  If you glued the boo backing down with TB glue you can remove it(the backing) with a bit of heat. TB glues will release at 150deg(F). To remove it start at one tip and heat it until you can get a wood chisel or screw driver under the backing then lift it as you work the heat towards the handle. When you get to the handle start at the other tip and do the same. Once the backing is off clean up the belly and get it ready for another glue up.
  I don't use boo backings any more for this very reason. It is too finicky to small unseen problems. I prefer hickory backing for it's strength, durability and ease of construction.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bumppo

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Re: Split in backing
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2011, 02:37:31 pm »
adb - thanks for the insight, thats exactly what I did, sanded the node down too far and its failing.... won't be doing that again! Its glued up with superglue and thread as a repair and I'll see if it holds.

Offline adb

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Re: Split in backing
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2011, 05:19:27 pm »
adb - thanks for the insight, thats exactly what I did, sanded the node down too far and its failing.... won't be doing that again! Its glued up with superglue and thread as a repair and I'll see if it holds.
Well... being that it's a 110# warbow, I personally wouldn't trust gluing it down. Take Pat's advice, and re-back it.

Offline markinengland

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Re: Split in backing
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2011, 07:16:07 pm »
I've had lifts like that. I've glued the lift down and then bound tightly with a very strong fastlfight type thread and then applied a very strong glue to the binding. This has held even if it isn't truly authentic and because I can't see it I don't worry so much about it!.
To be truly safe I'd put a new backing on though.