Sure Pat even though iv only started doing this 6 arrows ago lol (4 target arrows to get the spine my bow likes and then 2 hunting arrows i just finished). Well i combined several different peoples ways of making arrows. Im pretty sure the first part came from you
.
First I scrape/sand the big end of shaft to about 3/8". Then i test the spine and find the stiff side of arrow. If it is too stiff ill scrape/sand the whole shaft to keep some of the natural taper. If nock end is kinda thin ill scrape/sand from about where the feathers will end to big end of shaft. Once i get the spine within 3# of my target spine ill mount the head. I spin test the arrow(pretty sure that came from you too
) to make sure its centered in shaft. Then i shoot the arrow a few times and observe how it hits the target. For right hand shooters, if nock end is to the right of point then the shaft is still too stiff. If nock end is to the left, then the shaft is too weak. My goal is for the nock end to be right and gradually scrape/sand till it straightens out. If it is to the left then i cut length off the nock end of arrow to hit my target spine. This is why one of my hunting arrows ended up being 29" and one is 30"
. Once i have them dialed in shooting like darts then I fletch them.
Note: I pay close attention to my shot when bareshaft tuning so i know if it was me making the arrow shoot weird or if it is truly a good indication of spine. This is why i shoot a shaft several times for each step during the tuning process. I dont start taking more wood off until i know for sure what im seeing is the arrows true flight and not me throwing it off.