Draw length and draw weight question for a 56" slippery elm stave

[Stingray45]

Quick question for you guys out there. I have an elm stave that I fell the tree back in July, split the wood and let dry. Took it down close to bow dimensions to let it finish drying at the beginning of August and it is dried now and I have been working on it. I piked it down a bit, more than I was thinking I did and am now left with a 56" tip to tip bow. I was planning to have a 4" non-working handle. One of the tips is naturally recurved and the other is fairly straight, with a little reflex in it. I followed the grain pretty well, I left the stave a full two inches wide. Only tapering the last 8" to 10" down to 3/8" nocks. I'm wondering if I tiller this out well if I should be able to pull something off in the 50#@27" range? Or should I sinew back the bow to get there or would I be alright just rawhide backing it to add the extra protection? I measured my draw last night and I'm really only drawing about 26" or so when I cant my bow to shoot selfbows. I just like to give myself some extra assurance with the additional inch. I know the sinew would give me extra performance as well as security. If I could get away with the rawhide I would prefer to go that route as I have rawhide and I don't have sinew and have never worked with sinew before. Thanks for any advice you can provide.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I would make that handle work on something that short, backed or not. Just my .02 cents.

[Stingray45]

I am interested in trying my hand a bendy handle as well, so I'm not opposed to going that route. I was just thinking a stiff handle because I actually have an osage shortbow I received in the bow trade this year, 58" ttt and a 4" or 5" stiff handle. Actually draws out to 28" but I only draw it about 26" or so. Can I put an arrow shelf on a bendy handle? I don't mean cut in a shelf but glue one on the side and it will hold with the handle bending or will I need shoot off the hand? I actually made a nice leather flipper rest for my osage short bow, took a long piece and made the flipper rest and part of it also acts as the strike plate. So I'd be interested in doing something similar. Open to all suggestions. Only way I can get better at making them is if I try new things I haven't done before.

Barry

[PEARL DRUMS]

The cool part about whitewood bendy handles is the limbs are generally wider so that allows you to slightly narrow the handle section and leave it slightly thicker, it gives the feel of a grip, but it works. You can glue a piece of leather on a working handle no problem.

[Stingray45]

Ok cool. Yeah right now the whole thing is 2" wide pretty uniformly the whole length except for where it tapers at the tips. I wouldn't be opposed (and actually prefer the look) of a narrowed handle, widening at the fades. If I can still do that with a bendy handle I would definitely prefer to do that.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Just remember, there will be more winged elm in the future. If this one doesnt make it, you at least learned a thing or two from it.

[Stingray45]

Oh yeah for sure. I actually have another couple of staves. This is just my first attempt at it from the smallest of the staves. It's a nice, somewhat snakey piece with alot of character. I'd prefer not to lose it, even if I can't make it for myself and have to leave the draw short on it and give it to someone else that'd be fine.

[Keenan]

 56"t2t  is pushing it for any wood to hit 27" draw unless it is a bend through the handle.  If your knocks are 1/2' off each tip you are down to 55"  then divide by two and that is minimum draw as a standard rule. So if the handle has four inches of nonworking your max would be about 25" draw for safety. Make it bend through and you should be able to do it.

[blackhawk]

Ditto on the bendy handle...and ill add to matching the other tip to the naturally recurved one. This will also help reduce string angle and stack at that far of a draw for that length bow.