Bandsaw Blade for Green Oak

[Del the cat]

Quick Q.
3 tpi or 8 tpi for ripping down some green Oak, I just picked it up from the woodland floor, the bark and sapwood was all rotten but the heartwood might make a nice stock for a primitive crossbow, it had a nice gentle curve to it and half had split away. I mean I juct jouldn't leave it lying there specially as I just happened to have a saw in my hand (how did that get there?) .
I'd have thought 3tpi, but I'm sure one of you guys will set me right.
Del

[Badger]

  I prefer 3 or 4 teeth per inch, one problem I have when ripping thick pieces of green oak is that the fibers build up on my blade causing it to run off and hit the steel guard ruining a blade. Just go kind of slow with it if you have a small band saw.

[Del the cat]

Ok, cheers, I'll put the 3tpi on... I just thought it was worth chacking before changing blades...AGAIN .
I have to move out the table saw to get to the lower wheel... grrr ftzzzz hissss
Del

[Prarie Bowyer]

I do a lot of rough out with a chain saw.  For a long time I use a small electric.  I picked up a sled thingy that clamps to the blade for like $12.00 or so on E-bay.  I also have the Loggosol chain mill but for most applications the chinese clamp on gets a straighter cut.    If the log is to small to screw your guide rail (2x4) then I made a system where I mount the rail to my bench and pinch the log to the bench with wedges and then run it like that.  Using a chain saw across the end grain will work better if you get an actual ripping chain.

After that cutting any green wood on the band saw I prefer as few TPI as possible becasue of the wed wood buildup.  Remember to wipe things down afterwards with oil or wax.

turning green wood makes a pinwheel of of water fly off the lathe.