broken tools

[Jimbob]

When I got started knapping I made my own billets using oak dowels, pipe caps and gorilla glue two part epoxy.  The head has come off of them twice now and I am looking for a solution that will last a little more permantly.  Ideally I would like to just buy the solid copper headed billet with the resin handle from flintknappingtools.com but I am on a budget so I look for other solutions.  I was thinking about trying to melt some copper down into the shape of a billet head with a wood screw set in the center so that it could be screwed into a dowel rod.  Or stick with the pipe caps and just drill a small hole in them so that they could be nailed using small finishing nails to secure them.  So I ask for your input and maybe pictures of tools that you have made yourself

[Tower]

Eventually all glues fail. The cap looses its original shape & the bond is lost. I know this question has been asked before & it seems like everyone has his favorite bonding agent. Mine is PC 7 it seems to hold up better to the abuses I inflict upon my caps.

[cowboy]

Ya might try pouring your lead around a bolt or screw in the cap. I had the same problem when i made mine, eventually went to solid copper rod.

[Outbackbob48]

I've had good success with JB Weld on my copper caps. The bad part is when you wear thru the cap an go to replace  an melt out your lead, JB an lead smell really bad an I can only guess the nastys coming off the fumes. I also went to the solid copper ends from flintknapping tools. Good Luck   Bob

[Will H]

I've had the same problem in the past especially with my larger boppers. After meeting SAWFILER I made myself a new set with copper tube handles. The solder seems to hold up way better than the epoxy. I put some electrical tape on the handle to keep my hands from turning green from the copper and for added grip. Works for me. 

[Bill Skinner]

I think you are smacking your rocks way too hard.  All glues fail but I usually wear out the cap at about the same time.  Your caps have dents, they really shouldn't.  What kind of rock are you knapping?  You may want to try TV screen, glass or obsidion.  Bill

[Jimbob]

-Bill, I have been knapping alot of TX flint lately but have also worked some uncooked rhyolite from here in NC which seems to be very tough.  I also think that when I pounded them out into the rounded shape, they kind of thinned the metal out and lent itself to bending more than it would otherwise.  I am still learning alot and appreciate everyones input from here.  Thanks everyone

[gstoneberg]

I use copper expansion tubes, like you solder into place to stop pipes from hammering.  They had  beautifully rounded tips which I filled with lead.  I cut off the bases and wrapped them with electrical tape to keep my hands from turning green.  The 3/4" version is too heavy for anything but spalling out flint chunks (which means I put in too much lead).  The 1/2" one is the perfect weight, but it's so soft that if I hit anywhere but right on the end it dents (I'm doing indirect percussion).  It is perfect for direct percussion.

George

[Jimbob]

Could you please post some picture George?

[iowabow]

I had a problem in the beginning with the ends coming off.  I solved the problem by making sure that I was not using too much lead in the cap.    If you have too much it reduces the surface area of the bond.  I use jb wield and it has worked great.  Have been hitting the rock with it for 6 months and no sign of failure.  I also make small groves in the wood for the glue to sit in.  Any kind of a pattern is good.  I have hundreds of hours on that tool and at the IBO in TN I know I hit rock for ten hours or more in those three days.  The more surface the better.  You don't need a lot of lead to simulate antler.  Just my way...shannons way is good also.  I was able to work with his for a couple of hits and it was a good tool.  Lots of good ideas in PA.

[bowtarist]

I've yet to make a copper bopper, but when I do, I'll use PC-7.  I even hear rumors that they have a PC-10 now.  That stuff works great.  Maybe you need to lighten your heads and give yourself a little more surface area on the sides for the glue to stick to.  Make sure all surfaces are clean and roughed up before gluing.

[gstoneberg]

Could you please post some picture George?

Here's the 3/4" bopper I made and the piece I cut off.  Even it has bent from spalling out flint.  The 1/2" version is beat up quite a bit more from heavy use.

George

[Jimbob]

I've yet to make a copper bopper, but when I do, I'll use PC-7.  I even hear rumors that they have a PC-10 now.  That stuff works great.  Maybe you need to lighten your heads and give yourself a little more surface area on the sides for the glue to stick to.  Make sure all surfaces are clean and roughed up before gluing.

I think that might have been part of the problem, there wasnt alot of surface area left after I put the lead in.  Where might I find some PC-7?  I havent heard of it.

Thanks for the picture George, I am getting some ideas.

[bowtarist]

"Where might I find some PC-7?  I havent heard of it."  In the epoxy section of most hardware stores.  It's like JB weld, but.. .