Rawhide backing question

[Stingray45]

Hey everyone, got a quick question for you bowyers out there. I just backed a hickory pyramid style bow with some rawhide I had. I had backed another bow, of similar shape and dimensions with this rawhide but the bow blew up on me on the tillering stick because the bow was much too short for the draw length I was going for, but I saved the rawhide. Where the bow broke the rawhide just lifted right off the small piece and stayed attached to the rest so I was able to peel it off undamaged. So I am now backing this bow with the rawhide and there are tiny areas where I wasn't able to stretch the rawhide too, should this cause any problems? I chased a ring but there were a few small areas where I thought there might be a small violation, probably could have left it unbacked but wanted to be safe, plus I actually like how rawhide looks. So my question is, should I be alright with these small area's not covered? They're right near the fades and about 3 or 4 inches long and 1/4" wide at most.

Other questions I have about rawhide are, has anyone ever put a snake skin on top of rawhide? I know I just said I like how rawhide looks but I like how snakeskin looks better haha. Do I just pretty much sand the rawhide once draw with some 100 grit or so to rough it up and then put the snake skin on as normal? Also I want to put on some tip overlays, should I put those on top of the rawhide or should I peel back the rawhide where I want the overlays to go or should I just glue the overlay right on top of the rawhide? Thanks for the advice guys.

~Barry

[Stingray45]

Another note on this that people might find interesting or help, wrapped this bow to hold the rawhide on with bike innertube, WORKED GREAT! haha. I typically only put rawhide on board bows so that the back was flat and then I could clamp another flat board to the board stave with the rawhide glued inbetween. Used the innertube to wrap and it put it down even more snug and evenly, no spots lifting, looks great as well. Very happy with it.

~Barry

[Stingray45]

ttt

[Hrothgar]

Being hickory minor ring violations shouldn't be a big issue. If the rawhide strip runs down the middle of the limb and a small area on either side isn't covered it shouldn't be a big deal. If the majority of the working limb is covered the backing is still going to be a lot better than nothing.

[Stingray45]

Thanks for the info. It's just very minor areas on the side where I couldn't get the rawhide to stretch the whole way or maybe when wrapping I didn't noticed that I pushed the rawhide to far to the side, but nothing thicker than 1/4" or so. The majority of the limb and definitely running down the middle are all covered up solid. I'm planning to stain everything for aesthetics so that you aren't seeing where the rawhide runs off and not.

~Barry

[crooketarrow]

    HROTHGARS right I've had some staves with big grain violations HICKORY  can take it. HICKORYS

[crooketarrow]

  HICKORYS my favoret wood. Being your rawhides a little short won't matter But you really don't need it. I have but skins over rawhide twice back when I backed bows. I sanded the back with 80 grit and used elmers so you know how long it's been. I'd use TB111 if I was you.
  I dont barnish bows anymore either but you also can do this then add your skin. Personal I would'nt bother with either with HICKORY as long as your tillers good.