Bandsaw blades and uses...

[PEARL DRUMS]

I searched and cant find what I need to know. I am the proud owner of a new 14" Grizzly. My shoulders and elbows cant take anymore of the "hard way" of bow building. 75% of my sawing will be roughing out self bows, the other 25% will be cutting out boo backing and resawing lumber. What TPI or tooth style do you guys prefer and use? Thanks and sorry for beating a dead horse.

[Lee Slikkers]

Good for you Pearl, it does save on the wear & tear on the ol' body.  I have a Grizz 3/4 hp also but added the 6" riser block which is great for larger stock or resawing.

I have a used a ton of different blades and manufactures as I used this bandsaw a ton when I was carving cedar & cork decoys.  The 2 I liked the best and seemed to hold up well were these:

Timber Wolf & Olson, I am currently running the Olson 3/4" 4TPI Hook style, Raker set & a 1/2" 3TPI

[Bow Nut]

10 or 14 TPI Raker style teeth design  Guts fast and smooth and allows for cutting curved cuts for handles and any other use you might have for it.  They last a long time to.  you can find them on ebay or Grizzlys website sells some great ones at a good price.  If you order from Grizzly just simply ask for a 10 raker or 14 raker they will know what you need.  You will need to give them blade lenght as well.  I use mine for boo and handles and it works very well.  you will be amazed at how smooth you can cut with thouse blades and how easily they can cut sharp curves through thick hard wood. 

[Justin Snyder]

3/4 inch 6 TPI hook blade. For roughing out you do not want a blade that will cut sharp curves. You want a blade that will cut long straight cuts without wondering into the bow.

[parson]

While we're talkin' bandsaw blades: I have a fairly new 3/8" blade that I cut some hickory strips with to use as backings. They weren't real straight but somewhat wavy. Will a wider blade help with this problem?

Thanks

[Justin Snyder]

While we're talkin' bandsaw blades: I have a fairly new 3/8" blade that I cut some hickory strips with to use as backings. They weren't real straight but somewhat wavy. Will a wider blade help with this problem?

Thanks

Yes

[Bow Nut]

3/4 inch 6 TPI hook blade. For roughing out you do not want a blade that will cut sharp curves. You want a blade that will cut long straight cuts without wondering into the bow.

  I always use 10tpi rakers for every cut if you follow you line it wont curve into the limb.  it has worked for me for many years on all my lam bows with straight cuts.  and when roughing out stave's especially character stave's i works well to follow wavy grain and go around knots and such.  A straight cut will violate the grain.  Just my 2 cents and I have never had one try to wonder it I take my time and follow my line.  But I guess it is what ever works best for each person this is just what has served me well for years.  I do my backings with a table saw and then plain them.  If you have a table saw I suggest trying it.

[JonW]

I have been using a $10 blade I picked up from Harbor Freight. It is 1/2" 3TPI and it works REALLY good for roughing and it still leaves a smooth enough cut for most things. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Sounds like just about all of them will do the job if I do mine. Thanks for the feedback all.

[Prarie Bowyer]

I like a coarse blade.  I have 1/2" 5TPI hook tooth blade.  Resawing lumber hardly slows it down.  It cuts straight or gentle curves just fine.  3-4 strokes with a hand plane take the tooth marks right out.  I use it for exactly what you say you are. 

Word of warning.  Resawing rough wood can torque a blade and ruin it quickly.  Go slowly and consider jigs to help support the wood.  I also carve alot so I collect stump sized logs.  I made a giant clamp that pinches the log and slides through the mitre trace for the first cut.  You can also screw the wood to a flat board.  Getting that first cut flat is important.

For bigger wood I also use a chainsaw lumber making attachment.  I have two.  One from Logosol and another that was like $20 on Ebay. 

[Lee Slikkers]

For bigger wood I also use a chainsaw lumber making attachment.  I have two.  One from Logosol and another that was like $20 on Ebay.

How do you like those saw attachments?  What is the max thickness you can get from your setup?  I have some large ERC logs i'd like to cut up into large planks and such for Shaving Horses and such.  Thanks~

[Prarie Bowyer]

Honestly, unless you do allot I like the Ebay one.  It clamps on the blade (make sure it's tight or drill and thread holes in the saw blade bar thing)
 and rides along a 2x4 that is screwed to the log.  There is a little video on Youtube about the different thigns you can do with it.  Some guy built a whole log cabin with that. 

for efficiency or doing allot I'd look at the Logosol. 

I have a Stihl Farm Boss with an extended blade.  I changed out the sprocket so I can run a longer narrower blade.  You'll need to get a "ripping chain" which is reground to cut most efficiently along the grain of the tree.  Most chainsaw blades are designed to be great across the grain.  I milled 5 large oaks with it into a huge pile of lumber for a former employer.  It took a few days. 
It's not as efficient as a bigh porta band saw mill..... but it's not $25,000 either 

There is a mial order arborist supply website.  name eludes me right now but they have great ripping chains.  Really efficient.  I can cut down the center of a 2' diameter log almost.  But actualy you wouldn't realy do that.  Take a side shaving off to create a flat surface.  Move the guide bar and then the 2nd cut creates a straight corner.  After that you can cut lumber or staves what ever.  If the log is thicker it' ok you could just rip a deep trench then usse splitting wedges to open it up.  In some  cases the wedges may be more efficient.  I breathe allot of exhaust when I use mine.  As an arborist I'd be fine but for the mill the saw rides on it's side , which blows the exhaust right in your face.

[Lee Slikkers]

Thanks a ton for all the info and details...it sounds pretty dang handy to have in the arsenal.  I'll check out the eBay one and pick up a chain.  Really appreciate the help bud.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I bought a few Timber Wolf blades. WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW!!!!!!!! I cant believe how much of a difference good blades made. I bought a 3 tpi 3/4" blade that absolutley tears the staves up! I roughed out 5 bows in an hour. I also got as 1/2" 10 tpi for riser cut outs and such. I waited WAY too long to buy a band saw. Thanks for the advice fellers.

[Lee Slikkers]

Great to hear PD...so we'll be seeing 5 times your normal production numbers now?