Copper punch

[Timo]

Here are a few pics of the punch I made today. Sorry I didn't take any pics of the set up, but will try to update that tomorrow night. I hope the pics explain themselves,but if not ask away.

[Timo]

Angles mean alot with this stuff, The flatter the hold, the deeper the flake will travel until it runs into a flat or looses energy. It is very easy to get things too thin, then wind up with those dreaded steps and hinges. 

You can do the same thing with just direct percussion but this allows you to be 100% accurate with your hit. Removing mass seems to be child's play.

[nugget]

Nice

[ordcorpdw]

So is it notched on the end to lock in and apply pressure or is it like a bopper? whats the method with the tool? sorry I am a newb. Looks promising.

[gstoneberg]

Grounding rod?  That's the same method Jackcrafty uses.  I've been wanting a larger punch though, I like that one a lot.

George

[StevenT]

Great looking punch, but I am a also a little confused how you are using it. Are you holding the rod behind your knee and bopping the side of the rod or are you using it as a true punch and bopping the end of the rod? If you are using it as a true punch, I would love to see a picture cause I cannot immaging how to hold the rock and the punch and the bopper with only two hands. One pic of your setup would probably explain all. One other question, is that a 1/2 inch copper rod?

[cowboy]

That looks easy Tim. I may have to incorporate that into my thinning strategy with some of pappy's stuff here. I guarantee you thinning that stuff ain't childs play .

[Timo]

Just got home after a long day. Will get some user pics up later.

[Timo]

Here are a couple pics to help some of you out.  The punch ,(be it) copper or antler is used like a crutch  against the opposite leg . Pressure is applied to the material  and then the billet strike forces the energy in the removal. Notice the angles changes for different removal.

[Timo]

Forgot to mention the rod is solid copper about 1/2". Most grounding rods I have seen are copper plated steel. Not good.

[ordcorpdw]

WOW!!!   can't wait to try this out. Looks much easier to control. Thank you for sharing that. How deep of a notch in the copper?

[jamie]

cool tim. the only thing i do is use a shorter punch. this allows me to place the piece im working on in my hand and i put my hand on my inner thigh . this gives this piece a firm anvil for lack of a better term and really drives the flakes across. only problem ive found is rolling the opposite edge sometimes and punching myself in the n**ts a couple times till i got used to it.

[Timo]

Jamie, I tried the shorter one but found I was always having to pick it up after the strike. This one allows me to kinda keep the punch in place more often.

I wished I was better with antler punches, but I still struggle with that technique. Not sure if I am not making them right yet. I need to set with Marty R. sometime and  get some pointers.

ordcorpdw, This technique is not a fail safe, just another way. If you are not use to free hand percussion then you might struggle.Also when you are driving flakes, it's easy to drive them into your hand, so be careful. The notches are about 1/16" on one end for shallow work and 1/8" for bigger removal.

[StevenT]

Thanks Timo. That is what I really like about this site, I'm always learning. As the saying goes, the picture of your setup was worth a thousand words.

[ordcorpdw]

Timo, thanks for the reply. I need something with more control. Thinning attempts usually result in big chunks and a lump of rock left. I am more chunking the rock apart till I just have a bunch or rubble. Very cool forum. Thanks for being nice to newbs.