Hickory Recurve (and progress pics)

[Lee Slikkers]

Thanks for the tips Chris.  Yup, I saw the stiff left limb and it should be already corrected now.  I have the tips back in the jig and re-bent so we'll see how that works out.  Not real crazy about gluing up Osage as an underlay (not the "color" combo I was looking for) but it may be the smartest choice for strength I guess.

The thickness of the apex for each tip is as follows:

Left = .495

right = .483

Odd huh, the thicker limb is the one that has the recurve pulling out too...head scratcher for sure unless when I toasted the belly I somehow toasted everywhere else more than that area??

[bubby]

I dont think ya have to use osage on the tips, just prebend whatever wood that you think will work before glue up, like a lam bow the glue along with prebending  should hold the recurves, 'course that's just my opinion, Bub

ya might have noticed but I like walnut with hickory

[Lee Slikkers]

That's true Bubby...walnut would look pretty nice.  I'll let the cat out of the bag on this build...I am backing it with Cherry Bark so I want to use wood, dye and leather that will accent and highlight the bark backing.  Hmm, purple heart might look kind nice too, maybe I need to get online and do some shopping 

[blackhawk]

When you toasted the belly of the limbs did you get to close to the curves? If so that could make the curves pull out some. If you toast the curves they need to be on the form. So if you toasted your curves without them being on the jig then it prob took some curve out.

[mikekeswick]

Remember set isn't deflex!
If you actually induce the deflex with heat the bow (all things being equal) it could draw further or be less strained at the same draw-length. Once wood has taken set the damage has been done - the wood has lost some of it's spring and you can't get it back....
If I was you I would give the whole bow a good heat treating then work it some more. Re-heat treat work it some more, re-heat treat work it a few more inches of draw....repeat until you reach draw length. This process will help to minimise any set and allows you to get to full draw with nice springy wood! It may even keep some reflex in the limbs if your careful.It's a pain having to wait after each heat treating but it works.

[Lee Slikkers]

Thanks for that info Mike...I may do just that, have to wait for the Titebond III to dry on those Osage underlays now anyway so I might as well take advantage of the down time.  Can't wait to get this puppy spitting arrows!

[blackhawk]

Can't wait to get this puppy spitting arrows!

Yeah....me too!!! 

[Lee Slikkers]

Where are all the progress pics of your build Chris?   

[blackhawk]

Its called "wait for it"  ....lol.  im not confident enough I can get this one going. Its on the borderline of being unstable and I don't wanna embarrass myself. 

But if you insist........hmmmmm

[Lee Slikkers]

Hey, this one is borderline stable and WAY outside my comfort zone so if I can do you sure as heck can 

[Lee Slikkers]

Well, bored while waiting for the bow to rehydrate so I thought I'd snap a few pics.  Here is my progress on adding some Osage underlays to help keep the recurves from pulling out.  Went pretty well...  Also a few pics of the toasted belly.











Thanks~

[blackhawk]

I LIKE it     told ya they'd look good. 

[gstoneberg]

Looks nice Lee!  George

[Lee Slikkers]

Looks nice Lee!  George

Thanks bud...it has been pretty simple compared to your recent Saturday bow, this one was straight to start with 

[gstoneberg]

LOL, you just have access to better wood.  Don't tell anybody, but there's a nice straight hickory stave curing in my shop now.  Sadly it is NOT knot-free.  Back to your bow.  I may copy this design, I really like the lines.  Keep the pictures coming.

George