Steve,
I had a little time to look in on this site. I want to get back to your topic for a minute. I had an aspiring bowyer over here a while back to teach him how to build a wood bow. I worked with him from 10 in the morning, to 10 at night. He started shooting the bow about dark. I let the wood and his long draw determine the design. I pointed out to him that even though a 72" bend in the handle bow seems like an easy design, it was really a better design after you have had a few bows under your belt. Add to that, I narrowd the bend in the handle bow at the handle to help with paradox! That really makes it tricky.
I notice you bite your toung pretty well. ;-) You have talked about the design elements and what they do I am sure. We just need to make flight archers out of everyone!
I love all bows! I haven't made many ELB's. Doubt if I have made a dozen. Too cheap to buy the wood that can handle the cross section mostly. I will say that I have enjoyed them very much. Yes, tiller takes a while until you get use to them.
My favorite bows, for the most part, are long bows. English, American, my own design, doesn't matter. I only draw 27" stretched out! but I often shoot bows 70" long or longer. They perform well if built right.
I have to admit, I wasn't shooting a yew longbow well at the archery competition of the State mountain man rondezvoo one year.
I pulled out a 65# bend in the handle hickory plains style bow, sinew backed, 54" nock to nock, and was shooting it better. I used it to edge out my Buddy Don Burge for first place! He was using a yew ALB. But over all, I usually do much better with a long bow.
I repeat, They are all good, we shoot what we like and what fits out preferences. I am just happy that every wood bow is someones favorite. Last week I asked my back yard neighbor if he was ready to give up his training wheels yet! LOL. (I was building those bows in the early 70's)
Dan