pads

[triggerfinger]

I made one of those notched pads like PMJ has on you tube, but I used to soft a material and it crushes down too much.  So Id like to get some ideas of what I should be using.  If you wouldnt mind showing me your pad id appreciate it.

Also I bought a couple slabs of obsidian from bownut in Atl this weekend, and wow that stuff works great.  If thats what it all is supposed to work like then Im using the wrong stuff.  Bownut (Matt) gave me a few pointers and moved me about a lightyear forward in my knapping.  I am two for two with it, they arent anything to write home about, but they arent trash either.

[Tower]

When I worked at a quarry we had a 10 ft section of 3/4 in x 48 in 3ply belt. That's what I use . I have enough to last several lifetimes.

[triggerfinger]

When I worked at a quarry we had a 10 ft section of 3/4 in x 48 in 3ply belt. That's what I use . I have enough to last several lifetimes.

Matt had a similar type stuff, rubbery with internal cords.  Reminded me of a wide fan belt he said his came with his kit when he bought it so no help there.

[bowtarist]

I think I saw the same YT vid.  Looked like a fiber radial mounted to a block of wood.? 

Tower, how about PM me and we'll see if I can get a section of your lifetime supply?  Huh?, Maybe?

[knap_123]

i use to use pads but i wore them out to much,  now i  only use a piece of folded leather. i like to feel the rock!   it took some getting use to but i couald'nt use anything else.

[Bill Skinner]

Use a piece of wood with leather glued to it.  Bill

[YosemiteBen]

In the museum where I work I use a stack of odds and ends of leather, that way when a piece wears out I can shuffle them around and have a new one on top. I have not gotten into the "stiffs"(not time period appropriate) another friend cuts his pieces into half circles and then stacks them up. Another things about not using a pad is learning to stretch your fingers so the piece you are working on is over the "fat" parts of your hand, ie the "heel" - do what feels right and if the good points appear then so be it.

[triggerfinger]

i dont understand how you get a flake to travel without a notched pad

[Bill Skinner]

The wood is notched, the leather is on each side of the notch and is there to keep the point from slipping when you apply pressure.  If you are using a copper pressure flaker, you will wear the wood part out from the pressure flaker hitting it when the flake releases.  A piece of wood about the size of a deck of cards or a little smaller fits my hand with room enough for my fingers to curl over and hold the point.  Round off the corner if you have problems holding the point.  Bill

[YosemiteBen]

Trigger - how far the point travels is not whether or not you are using a notched hard pad or a stack of leather pieces. flake travel is based on platform preparation and proper application of the pressure flaker.  I am not allowed to use a hard pad in the museum and the Native people most likely did not either.  A lot depends on how you hold your piece when working it and which direction you apply the pressure. I will try to find or draw something that will help explain it mo' better. give me a bit or send me a pm.
Ben

[iowabow]

OK I am a newbie so I can tell you only what I have figured out since July17.  See I switched to learning the leather pad rather than the block because most of the great knappers in here don't use them hmmm why I ask. I was told that I could not control the flake as well hmm why.  Well the way I have it figured is that the pad helps keep the tool attached longer and allows the fingers holding the stone to help lift it upwards and this peels the flake.  My flakes are different and are longer and thinner. Also for the first time I have another problem.  My flakes are running all the way across the stone and ripping off the other side.  It is like I am having to start the learn process all over again.  So my advice is to start with the leather pad because now when I grab the solid pad I understand it much better now and use it differently to keep the tool attached longer.  Also the leather pad will come in contact with the stone and can stop a flake from traveling.  This is how I stop it now from breaking off the other side.  Before I could not run a flake now I have to stop them from running to far. Now I am only a 15 day expert so take it for what it worth.

[iowabow]

OK I went and banged this out since the last post.  It was finished with the leather pad.  This was  really fast for me.  I don't have good control of the pattern of the flakes yet but I am controlling the travel better than this morning. This for me is maybe the best ratio of thickness to width yet.  You can see that the termination of the flakes are to center or just past.  This was not achievable 3 weeks ago.   

[iowabow]

[iowabow]

I am just learning so I hope that helps.  There are a lot of very smart people in here that can help you and I am sure everyone does things just a little differently.

[triggerfinger]

I am not getting anywhere near that kind of flake travel or width.  My flakes are very small and dont remove much thickness from the piece.  Im definitely gonna try to find some time to get together with someone in GA.  I need the instruction at this point.  I think im getting pretty well stuck and probably giving myself bad habits.  I cant wait to try your new pad IowaBow, its prob sitting on my new houses porch by now, and im 400 miles away.  Its OK ill be there tuesday and will go straight to making gravel.