Cameroo, I decided to build my own boat for combined reasons. I wanted a true sea kayak, but didn't want spend the cash. An early spring project like this is just what I needed to stay busy at the close of snowboarding season. And, the primitive build falls lock-step with the sort of thing I'm into. I had no prior build experience and bought Cristopher Cunningham's, "Building the Greenland Kayak" book. I followed that book for most of the build, but skinned using the method on skinboats.org., which IMO is far better than the book's method. I made various tweaks from other references as well. I used first rate materials and laid out $400 and change for everything. The "goop" is a 2-part, 100% solids urethane that the skinboatschool carries. It is mixed in small batches and is squeegied on. It's rumored to be some type of concrete sealant for normal use. Very tough stuff. I also used 12 oz. nylon due to the rocky nature of the rivers and streams I paddle, in lieu of the more common 8 oz. fabric. Most of the build relies on personal "fit" vs. measurements, not unlike a selfbow. This one is 22" wide and is perfect for fishing and general use. I'm planning, however, on building a skinnier, lower draft boat for faster paddling and nailing my rolling.
Josh, That K-bar has seem alot of "camp" use. It's a tough knife. My only complaint is that I wish it were the full sized version and I wish the leather handle didn't have those recessed rings. If you're doing anything heavy duty with the knife over a prolonged time (like bowmaking), those little rings will reduce your hands to a blistery mess!
Pat, I like the sound of that. Though I have a cabinet full of dyes, stains, and finishes, I have a distinct lack of bear fat. After I ran a test on the scrap wood, it dawned on me that teak oil finish, the same stuff I used to seal the qajaq frame, might be the best bet. It's thick to carry alot of pigment, but dries quickly...way faster than linseed oil.