"The levers are much thicker than they need to be. As you know, they aren't supposed to bend. The key is to get them just thick enough not to bend, no more - no less. "
"Siyah's are definitely too bulky and could be narrowed and shallowed significantly."Oh yeah, I see what yall are saying now,
, See, they were tapered to 1/2" or so give er take thickness and width at the tips of the levers but I ended up cutting about 4" off each end, so now all thats left is the fat bulky end. I've just been to lazy to fix,
But I did go fat on this one anyway, this is actually the first molly I have made guys that has stayed together. Last one I made out of a mulberry stave that ended up being twisted at brace and therefor the lever broke eventually. (it's that lateral stability your were talking about in the other thread ryoon coming back to bite me, lol).
"I like the linen thread. Where does one get that? Does it come in colors?"http://www.shopatron.com/products/category/Sport+Weight+100gr+Skeins/378.0.1.1.10932.20411.0.0.0There ya go. I use it for alot of things. It's bleached and processed, but works all the same. The average breaking strength is around 15# per strand. I use it for bow string alot as well as binding, seems to work pretty good for both. I made a string for that mulberry warbow a couple weeks ago from linen thread. The good thing about it, is it's not all rubbery like b50, very low stretch and therefor sends arrows flying and ups string tension a bit. But unlike fast flight, it won't cut into your selfbow nocks. Which is nice. It does make a bulky string though, and 100# is probably the most you can make a string for without it being like a rope. For 50# selfbows it is great string material though.
"I am amazed though, that the bow did survive a pull to 28"."Yeah I know, me too! LOL
"The excellent tiller, backing, and set have saved you on this one since you really pushed it."Yeah, I think the only reason it didn't blow was the backing. Like I said the belly has got a good amount of chrysals so I don't know if eventually it will fold, as it might. Man, ryoon, now that I sit here
and actually think about what you were trying to tell me yesterday in that other thread about how a mollys limbs has to be wider to avoid set it makes sense to me, now that I am sitting here staring at the proof, LOL.
"When you say pyramid limbed molly, do you mean it's a pyramid taper to the shoulders or to the nocks? "
Pyramid taper to the shoulders which are half an inch thick from shoulders of the levers to the tips. I thought it would be fast, but your are absolutely right about the inner limbs having to be wider to avoid set on a molly. I guess that goes back to tim baker saying inner limbs have to be wide enough to take no set. For some reason I always seem to be dumb enough to ignore stuff like that.
"You don't have enough working wood to handle what you're trying to do with this bow.""As Gordon said - the working limbs are too short."Well, the chrysals sure do seem to agree with you guys.
"Awesome bow! Thats an impressive pull on the tillering stick."Thank ya! Maybe hopefully I can turn er into a good bow yet.
I was meaning to ask you guys, as I haven't ever used a heat gun for nothing and have been quite stubborn when it comes to heat treating, but was thinking about purchasing one sometime soon as sears has one on sale I noticed. I was wanting to know how you guys heat treat reflex into bows that are already shot in, if heat treating chrysals is smart at all, and if I could (or even should try) to heat treat a bow that has a tb3 glued on backing and a glued riser and levers? My goal would only be to get the string tension at brace up to satisfying as it is currently at a (asian style sorta, yes I have abused the crap out of this bow
) 7" brace, and is still to weak for a 50# bow. How do you guys do it? Do you hold it in some reflex in a form or something? I heat treated an osage a long time ago which brought the weight up alot, but I just used my stovetop burner for that... Would you guys recommend against heat treating a bow with a tb3 glued on backing?
