my first yewbow ... updated!

[medicinewheel]

hi everybody!  -  a while ago i worked the sapwood of a yew stave down to one yearring. that was the first time and i was proud i did not violat athe ring. thisone is meant to become a 45-50#@28" ELB.
the backline needed a little correction and i found the time to steam it this weekend. this worked out okay.
at the same time i tried to induce some reflex but that didn't work very well (only kept 1" from 3"). would you yew bowyers out there say that dry heat i would have had a better result??

thanks for watching,

frank




[attachment deleted by admin]

[Pat B]

Frank, I have never adjusted yew with heat(mainly because of limited use of yew ) but from what Glenn St Charles says in "From Billets to Bows" it manipulates well with heat. I believe he either boiled or steamed but I'd bet if he had access to a heat gun he would have used it. If I were to use dry heat, I would oil the wood well first then let it rehydrate for a day or so before stressing it. Don't take my word for it , wait until someone that knows answers.    Pat

[medicinewheel]

......... Don't take my word for it , wait until someone that knows answers.    Pat

aaaaaahh pat, i love your understatement  !!

thanks!

[Justin Snyder]

Like ME Pat?    OK maybe you better keep waiting.  Justin

[medicinewheel]

  it's not good to rush these things anyway!

[mullet]

  From what I've tried heating yew,I'd stick to steaming and boiling.I found out the heat gun is alright making small bends and adjustments after really oiling it up.It still acted like it didn't like it.It bends real easy boiling it.But be carefull letting it dry too fast.Like putting it in an air conditioned room.The tips on my stave split almost 3" in one day,even after I sealed it.
I almost lost a Primo,80% finished stave that day.Personally I think it likes a little moisture like Eastern Red Cedar.

[Pat B]

Frank, if you boil or steam it and it is well seasoned you should coat the area to be worked to prevent moisture from entering the wood, which will lead to drying checks later. Shellac will do the trick even with boiling or steam temperatures. Its easy to remove later with either a light scraping or wiped off with alcohol.   Pat

[medicinewheel]

thanks guys!  -  seems like yew is a wood one needs to be carefull with when heating it up! i did seal the area to be bend with shellac and after bending i sealed it some more to prevent cracks. so far that worked fine.

frank

[Pappy]

You got lots of projects going.Reminds me of me.Don't know witch one to work on first.
   Pappy

[adb]

Hey, Pat B and all else,
remember, for straightening or inducing reflex  ... dry wood use dry heat. wet wood, use steam.

[Pat B]

ADB, I understand the old addage about dry heat, dry wood, etc but in some situations and with some woods, one would be better than the other.  In the case of dry wood that has to be steamed or boiled, shellac would prevent any moisture from getting into the wood so you shouldn't have to worry about checking afterwards.     Pat.

[OldBow]

I'm the guy that does a 16 mile round trip bicycle ride to get yew just north of where I live.  I have made a few yew bows and will make another this autumn.  I use dry heat.  Steam is probably as good but then you have to let the wood dry too long.

[medicinewheel]

everybody thanks for their replies! - stave is still alright.
frank

[heavybow]

 Very nice war bow. marlon

[medicinewheel]

hi everybody!  -  this one has been sitting in the corner floortillered since quite a while! started tillering it today and i'm pleased with the result so far!

the pictures are taken at 21.5" (=20" + 1.5" thickness of handle), 23.5" and 25.5"
i'm at 60#@25.5", 50-55# at 28" is what i'm aiming for, so no problem there!

well, it's my first bend-in-the-handle bow and i would appreciate some tiller comments!!!

thanks, frank

ps: upper limb is on the right, tiller is 1/4" positive!

[attachment deleted by admin]