can you fix runs in tru oil?

[Weylin]

I just applied my first coat of tru oil on my bow last night and despite being as careful as I could there are a few minor runs and sags on the back. I was trying to keep in really light but I guess I could've done more in that department. I was planning on taking some 0000 steel wool to it between coats but will the steel wool help the runs or does it take something more drastic?

[sailordad]

i have used steel wool in the past for runs in tung oil
but find that 1200 grit wet/dry sand paper works better

[ErictheViking]

I agree with sailordad, I have refurbished alot of gunstocks with tru-oil and 1000grit wet dry( easy to find in auto parts stores) is the best. just lightly sand to knock down the run and reapply the tru-oil.

[Weylin]

Thanks Gents, I'll give it a go.

[macbow]

When We say light coats it's really light. I put some on my finger and try to cover half the bow with it. just keep rubbing and spreading.
Runs can happen and the sand paper is the way I'd go too.
Ron

[osage outlaw]

I tried the make up wedges for applying the tru-oil on my trade bow.  That worked great.  This was the first time I didn't have a run in a bow. 

[Weylin]

I'll have to try the make up wedge, sounds like it might help.

[Gordon]

If the run hasn't fully cured just scrap if off with your finger, otherwise you will have to carefully sand it.

[El Destructo]

I fully agree with Gordon...Scrape it off with your fingernail...or I have also had goo luck with the Thin Scraper I got from Shannon (Sawfiler)...it worked great on the Runs....

[Gordon]

Keenan had a few of Shannon's scrapers at our recent gathering - I was impressed with how well they worked.

[El Destructo]

Can you roll a Sweet Curl with one of them things...or what!!

[Weylin]

Yeah, I'm sorry I missed that gathering. We were all set to come out but we just didn't pull it together. How long do you typically wait to put on the next coat of Tru oil? Til it's fully cured or can it still be a bit tacky? It's been 24 hours but the weather is is still pretty cool and rainy, (come on Portland, it's June already )

[El Destructo]

I personally will not apply Tru Oil...if it is Humid...JMO...When I apply Tru Oil...I cut the Tru Oil 50/50 or 60/40 Odorless Mineral Spirits/Tru Oil ...I think it soaks in and looks  better ...I also use my Finger...and rub it in good...but thin...let it dry totally...about two hours here....If you apply it thick it'll take much longer to dry.... and you'll pay a high price in removing the goopy opaque mess you've made....if it doesn't dry...or starts to sag or run

Tru-Oil is just boiled linseed oil mixed with a spar varnish. It can look great or it can look lousy. It's up to you.

[Gordon]

Weylin,

The surface should be hard before you put on the next coat. In the current conditions we have in Portland, that's about 2 coats per day. In warm and dry weather I can get about 3 coats a day. If your surface is still soft after 24 hours something is wrong - either you put it on too thick or the wood is oily. With oily woods such as ipe I first seal the surface with shellac before applying Tru-Oil.

[Weylin]

It is hard on 99% of the bow. it is only a little soft in the few spots were there was a run. I scraped those down but due to thier tackiness i wasn't able to sand the edges cleanly so i think I'll wait until tomorrow to clean them up and put on a new coat. No sense for me to be in a rush at this point.