Working with an axe

[billy bowmaker]

have you considered using a froe to take long slabs of extra material off before even switching to the sharp hatchet?  I agree with Darksoul, the hatchet should be sharp and comfortable in weight.   You can remove alot of wood quickly with one.

[DCM4]

Both a suggestion, and an antecdote.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/swedishcarvingaxe.aspx

I think I traded for mine, many years ago, but this little ax is THE tool for such work in my opinion.  At least I haven't found an ax or hatchet to come close yet.  Hard to justify the price, from my pov, but like I said, for what I got in it, it can't be beat.

Wife texted me while I was turkey hunting early this last Saturday morning.  Said what a beautiful day it was, that she was working in the yard and she'd already pulled one of the old dead shrubs out of the front bed.  We started working in the bed last fall, pulling out old box hedges, junipers and such that were too old, overgrown and some dying.  By the time I got home at dinner there was a pile in the yard, maybe 5 or 6 shrubs she'd pulled.  When I climbed out of the truck she said "The axe was too heavy for me so I borrowed your hatchet.  That sucker works great!"  Since I don't own a hatchet, least not a sharp one with a handle in it, and what she thinks of as an ax is one of those cheesy home center, True Temper pos I use for splitting wood, my response was "the one with the leather scabbard, under my work bench..."  Needless to say cutting out roots in the flower bed didn't do much for it's sharpness.  Fortunately the chips are not so deep I can't hone them back out.  But it will take more than a standard sharpening.  It would shave hair bettern a broadhead prior to this mis-adventure. 

[Badger]

David, I have the same identical axe. They take a great edge and I tend to use it in the yard quite a bit. I bought it with the intention of making bows while camping but my forearm seems to give out before I have a big stave worked down. Hard to beat when digging out tree roots but it is a bit hard on the edge.

[Badger]

    I just went out and did some chopping just to examine my tecnique. I find I grip the axe a bit harder than I normally grip tools bcause of the shape of the handle. I am going to wrap it in leather to see if that helps.

[zenmonkeyman]

I experience the same thing, it's why I switched to a machete.  Even so, I've been meaning to invent a sling or a cuff that will basically attach the tool to my hand so I only need to control it, and not need to prevent myself from throwing it accidentally.  I picture something that ties to the front of the gripping area, with a velcro cuff like a (gasp!) compound release.

[Del the cat]

I think too tight a grip is what causes a lot of shock. I used to play badminton and a loose grip with a throwing/pivoting action generates speed.
At one time I did try a loose strap from the front of the handle around my wrist so that I could really let the raquet whip over like a trebuchet sling.
Obviously a grip is needed to accurately direct the power of the axe, but I think it's matching the weight to what you find comfortable and 'letting the axe do the work'.
My Bro' nearly drove me mad one day, we were on either end of a big two handed saw ripping down a Walnut stump for making gunstocks. He kept on accusing me of pushing and saying 'let the saw do the work'. Jjeez I nearly smacked him one, but he's a good bloke who's helped me saw stuff many a time, so I gritted my teeth and kept going.
So that's Del's tip of the week, if really want to rile someone, just keep tellin' 'em "let the (insert appropriate tool in here) do the work"
Del

[billy bowmaker]

i use a hatchet more and more these days, and my bowmaking is getting alot faster.  Doesn't seem to hurt the hand, wrist, elbow, anything.  My hatchet is a cheapo version from the local mom and pop hardware store.  I sharpen it with file and stone.  It cuts through black locust like butter.

[Qwill]

Use a sharp axe. I like old carpenters broad axes. And find an axe that is well balanced. I find I like a little weight, but if the balance is wrong I pay for it.

[JW_Halverson]

the bandsaw is best, but I still have trouble picking it up and swinging it
Del

I recently switched from axe to chainsaw for dropping trees.  I find the shock to my hands, wrists, and arms from the axe was bad but the chainsaw is worse.  And worse yet I can't really get a good swing with the chainsaw!  Going back to the axe.   

I have been using a falling axe with the handle cut down to about 12 inches for shaping out rough dimensions on bows.  It's hard on the forearms mostly because it's a bit heavier than necessary and out of balance.  I've beeen reading up on carving axes like the ones made by Grunsfors, but they are about $140 a pop.  I'm keeping an eye out on yard sales and rummage sales....I'll find something for a buck and talk 'em down to 4 bits.

[Badger]

   My hatchet is one of thos expensive Gransfors Bruks, shock is no issue at all just muscle fatigue. I changed my grip a bit and it is helping. I also think I was doing nearly all the work with my wrist and forearm muscles and am going to try and practice using a bit more arm. The handle diameter being so small makes it hard to grip firmly.

[mullet]

Steve, try letting the weight of the head do most of the work.

[Lombard]

DCM, my friend has that hatchet, and loves it. It is a quality tool, but it wears me out. I'm so used to my Estwing that anything else just feels awkward to me.

[Badger]

   I beefed up the handle with leather, improved the grip a lot and gave me a better fit. I think it will help a lot next time I take down the whole stave I will report back. Steve

[DCM4]

I use my carving ax rarely, and usually to reduce a rough stave enough to get it to ride the bandsaw table without too much trouble.  There is a knack to it, where you back-cut and then let the weight of the blade chip off pieces with a splitting action.  Seems like mine wants to strke with the blade at about 45 degrees to the work, partly away from me and down in a slashing motion, rather than straight up 90.

I think it's the bevel angles that make or break an ax, and usually the fault with the mass market ones, too steep.  The carving ax is offset, eg. "right handed."

I'm too tight pay $150 for a dog-gone hunk of steel.  I think I traded a bow for it, which I usually would just give away.  But I've enjoyed using it.

[HatchA]

I recently got a Gransfors Hunter's axe and I gotta say - it's possibly the best hatchet/axe I've ever held or used.  I've never used an axe to roughwork a stave but I'd be tempted to some time.