Author Topic: Advise for Black Walnut  (Read 1773 times)

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Offline cemojo

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Advise for Black Walnut
« on: April 05, 2011, 03:00:27 pm »
Hello Everyone,
I'm new to bowmaking and need some advise on working Black Walnut.
From searching forums, I'm coming up with conflicting info. One of the comments was that the heartwood is weak in tension and that the sapwood is better. Is that the way this wood behaves?
I just got a 1/4 split log that has 3/4" of sapwood on it. How much sapwood should I leave on the back?
What style of bow works well with this wood? The length of the log is 62" and I'd like around 45#.
Any other things to watch for when working this?
Any advise would be welcome,
Thanks

Offline Elktracker

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  • Josh
Re: Advise for Black Walnut
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2011, 03:05:06 pm »
Welcome to the forum good to have you!!! I have never used BW and really dont know allot about it but most I have seen were heartwood and backed . Sorry couldnt help ya out but someone will ;D and again welcome!!! and look forward to seeing you BW bow if everything works out for ya good luck

Josh
my friends think my shops a mess, my wife thinks I have too much bow wood, my neighbors think im redneck white trash and they may all be right on the money!!

Josh Vance  Netarts OR. (Tillamook)

Offline bubby

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Re: Advise for Black Walnut
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2011, 04:02:02 pm »
WALNUT: black .55. Semi-ring-porous, easy to work, elastic for its mass, similar in performance to cherry, but more tension-safe. Will try to chrysal where cherry won’t. A wonderful, overlooked bowwood. Bows can be all sapwood or all heartwood, or mixed, sapwood taking a bit more set in compression. The off-white sapwood can be worked down to 25% or so of limb thickness, creating appealing contrast with the almost black belly. Very high heartwood extractive level, so as with similar woods, it may be more resistant to water absorption. It’s reported not to warp with rising and falling humidity, possibly for this reason.
WALNUT, European .56. Design as per Black. Not as pretty, but makes a nice bow. Strong enough in tension to tolerate being a “backward” bow: the crowned sapling surface as belly, the split back surface tillered.
hope this helps, onemississipp.googlepages.com, this will give you a list of bow woods and non bow woods and their characteristics, Bub
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Pat B

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Re: Advise for Black Walnut
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2011, 05:17:49 pm »
On the few walnut bows I made I used the wood under the bark for the bow. By doing it this way you might or might not get any heartwood in it and it will only be in the handle. I used Paul Comstock's overbuilt bow directions for my BW bows.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline cemojo

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Re: Advise for Black Walnut
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2011, 08:22:29 pm »
Thanks for the advise guys, it's appreciated.
One of these days I will have some success, right now my bow building is 0 for 3!

Offline Elktracker

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  • Josh
Re: Advise for Black Walnut
« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2011, 08:33:19 pm »
Well number 4 is usually the charm you will get be patient and take your time, also try to learn from your broken bows figure out why they broke or failed and make the changes next time if you can. Also if you can post picture here and people can help you and give you advise on tillering and design ect. Good luck

Josh
my friends think my shops a mess, my wife thinks I have too much bow wood, my neighbors think im redneck white trash and they may all be right on the money!!

Josh Vance  Netarts OR. (Tillamook)