3 things to address

[GaryR]

First, I'd like to say hello to all as I am a rookie here and in the bow shop.
Second, I want to cut a hickory tree to make a bow. What diameter should I be going for? What things should I be looking for?
Third and least important, what primitive tools would have been used to fell a tree before metal came to be?
Thanx,
   Gary

[Josh]

1.  Welcome to PA!  Lots of good info here and very friendly helpful people too!

2.  I usually cut hickory at 2-3 inches diameter and split it down the middle and get two bows from same log.  Look for straight, knot free hickory if it's your first.  You can go larger diameter if you want though.  Just peel the bark off and that is the back of your bow.

3.  Stone tools! 

[Pappy]

If you are going with Stone tool,you might want to conceder a limb or sapling bow. I am sure you can do a bigger tree but I wouldn't want to do it. You can cut a Hickory limb or sapling about big enough to put you hand around. Welcome,I think you will like it here. Also if you plan on doing it with stone I would work it down close while it is still green ,seal it so it don't check, then let it dry.
   Pappy

[Buckeye Guy]

Welcome to PA
You have already heard from two of the best no need to add to them !!

[Cacatch]

I don't know how much the pre-metal NA's did it in North America, but I saw on TV where tribes in SA used to build fires at the base of trees to fell them too.

CP

[crooketarrow]

  If your going to cut your sapling with a flint ax. Stick to a 2" sapling easer that spliting . High crown in hickorys aright. If your only going to work it down with a flint scraper. The bigger the tree the more wood you have to remove. Pick one straight as limb free as possable.
  I,ve did this in a surivile class but for your first bow you might want to be less primitive. But going slow is the key and your takeing the slow route. Saw it down and after it seasons all you need is a rasp.string and a tillering board.

[gstoneberg]

Gary,

Is this you?  Cool, welcome aboard PA.

George

[George Tsoukalas]

I've a flint ax. I've also used sharp stones.  A 2 inch sapling will do you well. If you wait for spring the bark will peel off easily.  Rough it out with sharp pieces of whatever yo have. I've used shards of field stone. Rough it out green and even get it bending. Then let the stave dry and continue working it. The more you do with green wood the easier it will be. Wait until it is dry and string it. jawge

[gstoneberg]

Jawge,

It pretty much is spring here in Dallas.  Our daffodils are blooming and the roses have grown about 6" since I pruned them a week or 2 ago.  I'm hoping Gary will let me trade him osage for some hickory.  I don't have any access to hickory, though pecan grows just about everywhere down here.

George

[GaryR]

If I cut one this spring (like George said, it is spring here in Texas) how long will it take to dry?

Yes George, it is I your pupil. And I will trade hickory for osage.

[gstoneberg]

Pupil, that sounds funny to me.   You made great progress on your bow, I am excited how well it bent through the handle. 

Anyway, I'm thinking about picking up a couple 2x6s to make forms out of so we can take the hickory down as Jawge has described  and clamp it to a form to hold some reflex in the roughed out bows as they dry.  I have a bow oven from when I built laminated glass bows we can convert into a hot box if we need to.

Have you figured out a way to transport a stave on that bike?

George

[crooketarrow]

   HAY HAY from flint ax to cauls and a oven dosn't sound very primitive.

[GaryR]

George, I have it all figured out. Sidecar and rachet straps.

[GaryR]

I have read and understand that I need to seal the stave after cutting. Now I pose this question, how would primitive man seal his wood?

[gstoneberg]

True, Gary was headed down the primitive path.

Sorry bud (I love the sidecar idea).

George