Bend it or leave it?

[Stringman]

I got to diggin through my pile of wood stacked in the cave and found this piece of elm that I started on a couple years ago. I remembered why I leaned it there too. It has a pretty obvious bend right in the middle of the handle and I couldn't decide if I should leave it or try to bend it straight. Not having worked with elm that much I was at a disadvantage as to how to proceed... Any help would be appreciated. Oh and let me know about the tiller on it. Seems to me the fades are a little long. It's about 69" ttt and around 1 and 5/8" wide at the mid point of the limbs.

[HickoryBill]

How much of a bend is it? An inch or less? When you pull it on the tiller tree does it seem to twist a certain way? If it doesn't I would leave it alone.

[Timo]

You can get that handle to bend, but it takes lots of heat. be sure to clamp it past where you want it to be as it will spring back some.

[Stringman]

Will straight heat work? Or do I need to steam it? Another thing, I have pulled it to almost full draw and it seems very sound. Should I worry about backing it? I think I would rather leave it unbacked, but I've been reading alot about elm bows blowing up...

thanks again

[Timo]

I'd use plane old dry heat.

As far as backing it goes, that is a judgement call only you can make. Some bows won't let go until you loose an arrow from them.

[Pappy]

I would for sure bend it,if not in the handle ,somewhere,I don't mind one a little off center
but that much might shoot fine but would slap the s#!^^ out of my arm. 
   Pappy

[crooketarrow]

  The handles about the only place I'll use heat to center up my string if I don't think I can bring close to center when tilling. I uselly only do this while in simi bow form.  Because it takes more heat because it's a thicker peice of wood. I'll go ahead a form my handle close to where it's going to be when finished and leave the limbs really big so the heat won'y efect them. Bend it in line let it rehydrate then work my limbs down.
    Yours sense it's already inplace if it's not really bad and you can live with it leave it. BUT REMEMBER THE LESSON IT TAUGHT YOU.

[toomanyknots]

For reasons like this I like to leave the handle fat and make it last. So if (and when, for me, ) the bows turns out to twist or something putting the handle out of alignment, I can just form my handle pointing in whatever direction makes the string in the center. But then the limbs look goofy.  

[Stringman]

Thanks guys, I think I'll go ahead and try to bend it back a little. NOt much for leavin a piece half done. I'd rather bend it and break it than leave it set in the corner cause I didn't like the way it looked. I'm excited to see the way that wood's gonna pop once i get some sealer or linseed oil on it. I think it outta show some good contrast between the heartwood and whitewood. Soon as I get it to looking decent I'll give ya'll another look.

[Pat B]

I've had good luck bending elm lately(first real try). I use dry heat with oil. In an area as thick as your handle is I will heat it until it is too hot to touch(but not scorched), wrap it in alum foil for 5 minutes or so and then reheat it. This allows the heat to sink in deeper. Have the bow on the form when you heat and begin tightening your clamps to adjust the bend as you are on your second heating. This may take a few tries to get it centered.
  I also leave the handle area and the tips oversized until I'm sure everything lines up. You can make adjustments by removing wood from one side or the other of the handle and/or the tips.

[artcher1]

Looks like a really nice clean piece of wood there. Well worth straightening and getting into shape. I'm not much for hanging weights or clamping when it comes to straightening. I just get my wood hot, either by steam or dry heat, wedge in my vise, and over-correct and bring back to straight. Works very well for me.......Art

[Del the cat]

I think that it will torque like a pig. I'd narrow the handle as much as you dare and bend it.
A guy I know said I wan't fit to eat with pigs ... but Mrs Cat defended me and said I was 
Del

[ohma]

i just got done straightening a red elm handle worse than that.dry heat and crisco. as stated take it past center a bit and let it cool before un clamping.

[George Tsoukalas]

Comstock calls this the fiberglass mentality and he is right. Seems to be pretty prevalent now.  I had it. I lost it back in the mid 90's. So if the string is not centered what will happen? That was  a rhetorical question. I know the answer....nothing. Absolutely nothing. After all we are not building  fiberglass bows. I wish I had a dollar for every bow I built where the string did not bisect the handle. Leave the nocks wide until first stringing at least. Cutting the nocks deeper on the offending side  will move the string closer to center.  Leave the handle full width until fist stringing. Shape to center the handle. I get cranky without a nap. Time for my nap. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Ryano]

That's a easy fix with dry heat , and I'd hardley call that fiberglass mentality George, lol. Go take a nap.....
That thing will either slap the heck out of your arm if you shoot it one way or not shoot worth a crap if you flip it over and try shooting it the other way. IMO that has to be fixed or its worthless.