Shooting Off The Knuckle.

[badcolesonbad]

I bought my Son a horse bow 48 and The arrow shelf is nothing more then a thick piece of leather. I tried to glue it on, but my Son wants to shoot off his knuckle. I know you guy's shoot mostly off the knuckle and was wondering if I could get some pointers to pass on to my Son ? Thanks Much.

[Cameroo]

Some type of glove on the bow hand is nice, otherwise after an hour of shooting, the top side of your finger can turn to hamburger.

For a beginner, some type of index mark would probably be a good idea as well, to make sure the bow hand is consistently put in the same spot.  There are many ways to do that.

[Pat B]

Wrap the forward end of the arrow fletching to protect his hand from a sharp quill. You can add a "floppy rest" to the handle to protect his hand also. It is a simple piece of folded leather that attaches to the handle area. Another option is a glove for his bow hand.
  Will he be shooting with a thumb ring or a standard Mediterranean style grip?  Proper arrow spine will make a big difference also.  

[macbow]

When I was shooting a popular glass longbow with a cut in shelf. My hand was so close to the shelf and fat that I made a light weight glove with a sewn on piece of leather on the top.

Once I started making bows I continue to use this glove but really don't need it.
The most important thing IMO is to take care in construction of the fletching part of your arrows.
I flatten the leading edge of my feathers with the shank of a screwdriver or a round piece of metal.
Then add some glue to assure the front edge is smooth.

Over the years I have stitched an entire feather through the top of my hand in and out 3 times just like a needle and thread.
Ron

[badcolesonbad]

 He has just switched over from his recurve. Arrow wise, we have some gold tip 35/55 and 15/35 that he will use until we get some wood arrows for him to try. He is a small 15 year old and shoots 3 fingers under. No problems there, but he may try the thumb ring. The bow is 40# at 28in, he draws 26in for now. Could I put a thumb tack or something on the grip ? He wont tolerate anything that will take away from the look of the bow. Surprisingly, he shoots this bow verry well until the arrow rest moves or falls off.

[Del the cat]

I'd also recomend a glove on the bow hand (I use an old leather glove with the fingers cut off at the knuckles).
the other trick to aviod cuts on the knuckle is to raise the nocking point on the string by 1/4", this leaves the back end of the arrow flying a tad higher and missing your skin.
(I used to get cut knuckles until someone told me this trick)
Del

[badcolesonbad]

Got a glove for his bow hand. How about the fletchings ? I have seen shooters of thees bows use real low profile feathers. Is a 40# bow to light to use thees and will they make it so the arrows dont cut his hands ?

[HatchA]

As has been said by many - a glove is a good start.  A Golfer's glove is perfect as they don't come in pairs and you won't end up with a pile of "odd gloves" building up in the corner

Also, as said above - arrow spine is key!  If you like, you can also taper the fletching end of the arrow; effectively "raising the line" of the feathers up as the arrow shoots forward.

[Del the cat]

Got a glove for his bow hand. How about the fletchings ? I have seen shooters of thees bows use real low profile feathers. Is a 40# bow to light to use thees and will they make it so the arrows dont cut his hands ?

It's not the feather, it's the quill which cuts.
I try to sand down the quill as much as possible before sticking them on, of course some binding on the leading edge would help too. Some commercial fletchings have the quill left about 2mm thick, and it's quite sharp on the front edge.
I grip 'em in the clamp of my fleching jig and run 'em back and forth on some sandpaper on a flat surface to thin 'em down.
I hope that make sense?
BTW, I think your lad has the right idea, I don't think all these arrow shelves are very 'primitive' (scampers off to hide in secret cat nest)
Del

[markinengland]

A glove or rest of any sort is not necessary. If it is the nock point is too low.

If the nocking point is correct the fletch will not even touch the bow hand. If there is any contact or cut on the hand just raise the nock point. When the arrow is released the arrow will jump up slightly and the whole arrow including the fletching will clear the hand as it passes. Consistent hand placement on the bow will be needed and any kind of mark, binding or wrap can give this. The distance above 90 degrees will vary slightly depending on the bow, the release, and the arrow diameter but 1/4 inch is a good start.

[Thomas]

I use a floppy rest of very thin leather but the top of my hand is always exposed. I don't think that the fletchings ever touch my hand. I agree with Mark. If your arrows are spined properly, the fletchings won't hurt your hand. Also, when hunting deer, a small leather rest is silent when drawing your arrow back, where an arrow drawn across your bow makes a little noise. Possibly enough for a deer to hear.

[badcolesonbad]

We glued a tiny piece of leather on there, and put the leather handle wrap back on. We are going to have to get some better arrows, but he was able to shoot with out any blood being drawn. Nice, fast bow for 40#. I cant wait to see what a lighter arrow does.

[ohma]

if you are shooting off the hand and not protecting it with something you are an accident waiting to happen.

[aznboi3644]

I haven't shot much in the past couple months...too cold out.  But this past week I've been shooting a lot.

I have the "hamburger" hand...its nothing really.  Just some skin peeled off.  It's pretty much healed now.  I'm just waiting for it to callus up and the skin to thickin into a natural rest lol

[Dvshunter]

I've got a pretty good callous on my bow hand, but still for extra comfort and insurance I take extra care on the quill of my feathers. I use a small dot of hot glue and then smooth out the transition. it woks for me.