Author Topic: Doglegged Stave  (Read 11924 times)

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Offline Pat B

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #15 on: May 16, 2007, 11:51:52 pm »
If it is a dry stave, seal the back before you steam it or it might check when it dries again. Shellac works well to seal when steam is used. I buy Bullseye spray shellac at most paint and hardware store.   Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline jkekoni

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #16 on: May 22, 2007, 08:17:22 am »
Make the handle. Use dry heat on the handle to get the tips in the line with center point. The rest does not have to be in line.

You can also correct some string that is not centered.

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #17 on: May 22, 2007, 11:13:42 am »
Wasatchhawk-Like Tom Sawyer said follow the vertical grain or crown when laying out the bow. Also, I leave the handle full width and nocks wide-a good inch until at least stringing for the first time. That way you can shape the handle accordingly to track the string and you can cut one side of the nocks further to track the string on the handle. If all that  fails than I heat to track the string. If you run a string from tip to  tip  where does it fall in the handle area? Jawge
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Offline Wasatchhawk

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #18 on: May 22, 2007, 10:38:29 pm »
It's steaming as I type.

This mulberry stave still has some drying to do, I guess. Every day it changes shape.  When I took the pictures the other day the tips would have had the string about 3.5 inches to the right.  Today it was 3/4 inch to the right, with a twist correcting some of it.

I set up ropes and blocks to take care of the dogleg and the twist at the same time so I don't end up restoring one bend each time I fix the other.

Do you think 30-45 minutes of steaming should be enough?

Randy
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Offline Justin Snyder

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #19 on: May 22, 2007, 11:41:09 pm »
Didn't you just cut this stave a couple of weeks ago.  It will need at least 2-3 months to dry.  As green as it is you can probably just clamp it to a form and  let it dry. It will probably hold its clamped shape.  As a general rule for steaming, it is about 15 minutes for each 1/4" of thickness.  If it is still wet it will need clamped to a form until it is dry even if you straighten it now.  Justin
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Offline Wasatchhawk

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #20 on: May 23, 2007, 11:36:58 pm »
Yeh I cut it 3 weeks ago and roughed it out but left the thickness.  Since it has been so hot and dry here, and since it is so light weight now, I thought it was pretty much dry.
 
The steaming and cinching down worked for the bends, but the twist didn't work out and I think I have slightly more twist than I started with.  I was going to try using dry heat tonight but, I can't find my heat gun.

I'd post more pictures but I can't find my camera batteries tonight.
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Offline Justin Snyder

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #21 on: May 24, 2007, 01:31:13 am »
I doubt its is all the way dry. Justin
Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you made a bad decision.


SW Utah

Offline Pat B

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2007, 10:04:13 am »
Take it down to floor tiller stage before trying ti remove the twist. If you use the heat gun be sure the back is sealed very well first.   Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Wasatchhawk

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Re: Doglegged Stave
« Reply #23 on: May 25, 2007, 02:13:49 am »
I visited every hardware store around to find exactly the same Spray Shellac that you use.  (Found some) I sealed it before steaming.

I went to Harbor Freight tonight, they had 6 inch C clamps on sale for $2 ea.  I'm sure justin was right This stick needs to be clamped to a form to prevent it from snaking all over.

I'm going to take it to Dan's house Saturday.  Not sure if we are going to work on bows or not.  He invited me to go shooting on some guys new range in Price.  Said it would be a "once in a lifetime experience" sounds kind of intriguing. I will have my boards ready though.  I have one edge grain Hickory which is probably marginabley workable.  I also found a perfect piece of Red Oak at Home Depot. Perfectly plainsawn from the outside of a huge tree so the grain on the end is almost parallel with the flat top and Bottom sides. The Grain on top and bottom is parallel fromone end to the other.  I'm excited for Saturday.

Randy
A Family that Preys together stays together!