Author Topic: Shawnee style bow (not for bom) Wildmans 3 ready for the mail.... (Read 29234 times)

1776J · « **Reply #30 on:** February 07, 2011, 12:02:33 am »

This really is a neat little bow!
About how thick is it at the midlimb area?

Really nice bow!!

Almostpighunter · « **Reply #31 on:** February 07, 2011, 12:59:45 am »

Another amazing piece of work!

crooketarrow · « **Reply #32 on:** February 07, 2011, 06:04:06 am »

Nice

half eye · « **Reply #33 on:** February 07, 2011, 06:45:29 am »

Thanks again wor the kind words.....

ohma, you must know wildman, eh?

Ken, ya I know "old and slow"

Prosaffel, I hear ya my shed's not heated either and it's been from single digits to -24 , sort of takes the desire out of ya, dont it?

nclonghunter, thanks for posting that...it's got some pretty "different" bows for sure.

1776J, This bow is 1/2" thick all the way out, and tapers from 1- 1/4 inch at the grip area to 3/4" at the string groove. The second one I'm building is hard maple self bow and right now it's 1/2" thick all the way out and 1-3/8" to 3/4"....it's a lot stronger and is at a point where it can be braced....maybe about 70# at draw so it's got to come down quite a bit.

Almost, crooketarrow thank you fellas.
rich

Pappy · « **Reply #34 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:35:51 am »

Beautiful bow as usuall Rich,You do some pretty cool work.

Pappy

1776J · « **Reply #35 on:** February 07, 2011, 10:29:16 pm »

Quote from: half eye on February 07, 2011, 06:45:29 am

1776J, This bow is 1/2" thick all the way out, and tapers from 1- 1/4 inch at the grip area to 3/4" at the string groove. The second one I'm building is hard maple self bow and right now it's 1/2" thick all the way out and 1-3/8" to 3/4"....it's a lot stronger and is at a point where it can be braced....maybe about 70# at draw so it's got to come down quite a bit.

Almost, crooketarrow thank you fellas.
rich

Rich,
Thanks for the info,.... I was wondering if it was that thin.
Thanks.

okiecountryboy · « **Reply #36 on:** February 07, 2011, 11:30:46 pm »

nclonghunter
thanks for the link.

Rich, once again unbelievable craftsmanship. I'm going back and forth between close-ups of the museum piece and yours.....Are you sure the museum still has it's property?

Sweet Jesus! Your not letting me get near proficient at any type of bow before you are giving me the bug on another style....

When's the book coming out.

All the best
Ron

1776J · « **Reply #37 on:** February 09, 2011, 09:26:56 pm »

Quote from: half eye on February 04, 2011, 06:23:40 pm

most of the guys "trap" the backs....so that is what I did, then cut the sides, then took off the lines from trapping.......the back looks like a "low-crown" stave in cross section.

To what degree did you do the trapping?
How harsh and angle,...how much on each side? (1/8"...1/16"...?)

Is it more of an oval shape or is the trapezoid shape pretty distinct when you look at it with only the very edges rounded off?

I need to know where to go with my hickory bow I'm working on. Never "trapped" a bow and want to make sure I'm not taking to much off or not enough.

Thanks a million Rich!!!!

half eye · « **Reply #38 on:** February 09, 2011, 09:40:39 pm »

1776, The way I trapped this was to make a shallow flat plane up both sides of the back maybe from 3/8 near the grip tapering to about 1/8 to 1/4 at the tip and maybe only 1/8" deep into the side flat. That made the back look like a shallow triangle with a flat top. Then I hand sanded the sharp corners off so the cross section lookes like a stave with a shallow crown.

You can do the same thing but make the first cuts deeper and the bow would look like a "high-crown" stave....or somewhere in between. I think that if the design is going to be a really high stress you may want to make the "trap" higher but for a lot of the designs I believe that the "low-crown" will do the job......it will also remove less draw weight.

hope that is what ya needed, maybe somebody with more Hickory experience could fill you in better. Maybe a PM to Ken 75 (know he makes a lot of hickory bows and has lots of experience with trapping backs). But the above is how I did this particular bow.
rich

JackCrafty · « **Reply #39 on:** February 10, 2011, 02:48:53 pm »

Love your work!

half eye · « **Reply #40 on:** February 10, 2011, 03:05:07 pm »

Pappy, OkieCB, 1776, Jackcrafty....Thanks fellas, glad ya like 'em.
rich

dragonman · « **Reply #41 on:** February 10, 2011, 04:07:29 pm »

just saw this one, I like this style even better than the ottawa, similar but nicer with the deco on the back as well, I'd love to see these type of bows shoot, interesting tiller ,very different from the kinda bows I've bee making. but I loike em..

half eye · « **Reply #42 on:** February 16, 2011, 04:21:57 pm »

After the first bow for Wildman had too much set for my liking I built a second one pluss a Chippewa (Ojibwe) of the same length and same weight range.

The first one is the new Shawnee. It's 57" ntn, right about 50# at 28" 1-3/8" wide at the grip This bow is hickory backed red elm and has just under an inch of set.

The second one is the scalloped Ojibwe bow and it is also 57" ntn, about 50# @ 28" and is about 1-1/2" wide at the grip. The bow is walnut backed white ash.

Only thing left is the design artwork and a couple of "wind-feathers" and we'll see what Wildman thinks?
rich

half eye · « **Reply #43 on:** February 16, 2011, 04:24:21 pm »

Here is the second one...

Parnell · « **Reply #44 on:** February 16, 2011, 04:37:21 pm »

They're both just great, Rich. For some reason though, that Ojibwe is really striking to me though. I love that tiller and the dark backing. Also, seeing how you've narrowed down the nocks from the dimensions I see in text. Very interesting bow, wish I could shoot that!