Author Topic: new bow # question  (Read 3709 times)

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Offline hook

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Re: new bow # question
« Reply #15 on: December 28, 2010, 10:01:36 am »
frode,
unfortunatley my camara takes pics that exceed the size limit here. I don't know how to get them sized down to post them. I would love to know!!!

Offline gstoneberg

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Re: new bow # question
« Reply #16 on: December 28, 2010, 02:14:41 pm »
Almost any picture editing program will resize pictures.  I know HP Image Zone, which comes with all HP printers, will do it.  I suspect your camera has a resolution setting as well.  Set it to 640x480 and the picture it takes will be good to go.  I don't do that though, I use free software called Gimp.  Load it, then bring up your picture in gimp, select image -> scale and then make the longest dimension 640.  Do a save-as to a new file name and you're good to go.  Other alternatives are to use a picture site like Photobucket which will give you a low-res URL to use for web posts.

George
St Paul, TX

Offline hook

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Re: new bow # question UPDATE:
« Reply #17 on: December 29, 2010, 11:50:16 am »
hey guys,
Just a little update. I added an 1-5/8" reflex to the tips 6" back from the tips to try protect the bow from set. I put it back on the tiller/pully system which I improved last night to get the bow up to eye level and a decent back ground. one end (just in the bent part of the reflex)  bent more than the other so I sanded the stiffer one to get it to a closer match, its not perfect but I think I will make it my bottom limb rather that take it too far and screw it up. It is pulling 55# at 28 inches and I was shooting for 45-50# I think i am finally going to end up with a bow that actually shoots arrows!
with georges advice i might even be able to post some pictures when i get the finish and handle on it!  whooo-wheeee!!!!
thanks guys
john

Offline Pat B

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Re: new bow # question
« Reply #18 on: December 29, 2010, 12:27:09 pm »
Check the resolution setting on your camera. Set it to the lowest setting and it should give you pics at 640x480 which will download right on to PA.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline hook

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Re: new bow # question HANDLE WRAP?
« Reply #19 on: January 01, 2011, 11:24:31 am »
Hey guys I have just got the stain and sealer on. I am ready to put the arrow rest and leather wrap on the handle.
The arrow rest I have chosen is glued 1/8" thick leather. it is 3/8" thick where the arrow will rest, tapering down to 1/8 at the bottom, 3/4 wide, tapering to 1/4.
its sort of an elongated guitar pick wedge.
is there a specific spot where this needs to be glued? is it to big? how much space is needed between the top of the rest and the angle of the fade?
how do you get the leather wrap (solid piece, not narrow winding) to conform around the rest?

thanks,
john

Offline hook

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Re: UPDATE: will TB3 fix this?
« Reply #20 on: January 03, 2011, 10:24:58 pm »
I just got the handle laced and wanted to see how the arrow rest worked. braced it to 1" below height, pulled it gently a few times, went outside, nocked an arrow, pulled back slowly and smoothly and I heard one crack and now have a 4 piece take-down bow. WTF?
I dont know where it failed first. I am guessing it was the handle. my riser was only 6" with steep fades I also think I had a couple of grain run-offs. I went back to lowes and now have another 1x3 with a 9" riser glued and will try again tomorrow. just when I thought I had a shooter! I am really getting torqued!!!!!!!!! took my time and everything!
I hope the pics show up!

Offline hook

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Re:PICS ADDED
« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2011, 09:18:11 am »
I don't think it was a bad design. I just think I picked another bad board. Its tough to see the grain on the sides without getting the right glare and squinting alot. sometimes those open pores on oak look like grain. H-D and lowes just have crap to choose from. is there anywhere to buy an actual straight grained board for bows?

Offline gstoneberg

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Re: new bow # question
« Reply #22 on: January 04, 2011, 10:18:02 am »
Dang, that's rough, it blowing when you're completely done.  I always finish my tillering before doing any handle work.  Then I complete the bow and shoot it some before putting a finish on it.  All that to reduce the pain if it blows up.  I've only had one blow as completely as that one did, pretty spectacular (if it weren't for all the work that went into it).  :(

Good luck on your next one.

George
St Paul, TX

Offline Parnell

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Re: new bow # question
« Reply #23 on: January 04, 2011, 10:20:21 am »
Bummer Hook.  Don't lose heart, though.  My first was fiberglass tape backed oak with a hinge and 35#.  I then proceeded to break 8 or so bows.  To be honest, I'm not a fan of "superstore" oak boards.  My first successes came with hickory boards.  They are very forgiving to beginners and make great bows.  I found my first hickory boards at a shop making crown molding.  Then I looked for hardwood dealers in my area and found much better quality with straight.  To get boards like that now I've got about a 45 minute drive, but it's fine.
Couple of questions:
Where are you located?  How well are you sanding the back and the backs edges?  Did you end up putting a linen backing on this?  It would have needed it - there is quite a bit of run off.  Would you consider trying a D bow - it's a personal thing, but I found them easier to begin with.  Post pictures as you go with your next round.
Keep the faith, man.  Your going to get your shooter very soon, I'm sure.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2011, 10:34:36 am by Parnell »
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