Show us your Bow

[Loki]

Let's have a look at everyone's Bows  ,here's mine,its  made by Steve at 80",75lb (dropped a bit now though) at 32" and shoots like a dream!
I love this Bow,its a pokey little bugger  .

Unbraced

Braced

Arrow pass

Top Nock

Bottom Nock

(Click on the pics for a larger image)
Only got one pic of it at full draw and thats on another thread,dont want to be banging the same pic about so i'll leave it over there till i can get another shot.

Got one but its not very good  ,i need a new camera sharpish!


Take care
Andy.

[heavybow]

very nice bow Loki. marlon

[sagitarius boemoru]

Bough bow, very cranky. One side stave 2´´ reflex, other deflex. One limb off the axis, other torqued.

Brace looks rather funny.

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbowbrace.JPG

But nicely round when drawn

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbow.JPG

69´´ - 90#/32´´

J.

[Badger]

The bow looks great on the full draw shot, and not so untypical for a stav bow at brace, great looking bow Jaro. Steve

[Miles]

Great looking Bow's Guys
Well here it is my Pacific Yew stave I do not have a heavy war bow yet , but I do have a heavy bow to train with its about 115 pounds at 32” a big five Howard Hill bow and weights.

But as you can see by the of looks at my shop I got some side projects going on right now, and a little fearful of messing up my only piece of Yew and I'm having to wait for what Ash and Elm staves to dry.

I like this forum because it shows built a Long's.

And I do have the arrows hehehe

Cheers Miles

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Yeomanbowman]

Bough bow, very cranky. One side stave 2´´ reflex, other deflex. One limb off the axis, other torqued.

Brace looks rather funny.

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbowbrace.JPG

But nicely round when drawn

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbow.JPG

69´´ - 90#/32´´

J.

Nice bow Jaro,
As you are aware the bole stave was regarded more highly in medieval times, over a bough stave.  The latter is far more sustainable as the wood can be harvested.  Do you feel this was due to the lower proportion of sap to heartwood and lesser pins.  However, your bow seems to be the exception.
J

[sagitarius boemoru]

Yes I know it. The true strenght of yew, particulary in warbow is in heartwood. So when there is lots of sapwood, the stave just gets very much elastic. (Like that of mine).
I made a bow from Lincolnshire yew for Daniel and I took almost all the sapwood away and it has pretty crisp feeling.





Lazy bastard he is. He has it since autumn and havent even drawn it yet. I even gave him strenght ash bow...of no use.


Jaro

[D. Tiller]

Nice bows Jaro! Wondering what type wood might be simmilar to yew for making a close arpoximation when backed with something like pignut hickory. Yeah, I know its not what was used back then but just want to get a bow to shoot in simmilar style without breaking the budget. I've tried yellowhear (satinwood) Seems ok but not as zippy. Seemed to get its best results when made arround 75" or so long. Ipe seemed just a bit too dence and had to make one way too thin to get it to work properly, was a pain to hang onto while drawing. Going to try Elm next for a belly wood with a Hickory backing. If I ever get some time off that is! 

[sagitarius boemoru]

Hard maple for about 75# with hickory backing work well..

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/retileredbow.JPG

Here is such one.

Jaro

[D. Tiller]

Maybe extend the length for a bit longer draw? I was thinking maybe arround 77" (196 cm) length nock to nock for arround 80# and then putting a layer of silk on the back to keep down any frets just in case. Think elm would work? If elm how wide at the handle should I aim for. I was thinking arround 1 3/4" (4.45 cm) arround the same in depth maybe a bit more. Then tapering to 1/2" (1.27 cm) nocks.

[duffontap]

Hey Dtiller, are you ever going to post a picture of one of your longbows?  The only one I've ever seen is the Yew bow you built last year. 

               J. D. Duff

[D. Tiller]

I know, I know!!! I'm a lazy bastard.    I will have to post one day.

[sagitarius boemoru]

Maybe extend the length for a bit longer draw? I was thinking maybe arround 77" (196 cm) length nock to nock for arround 80# and then putting a layer of silk on the back to keep down any frets just in case. Think elm would work? If elm how wide at the handle should I aim for. I was thinking arround 1 3/4" (4.45 cm) arround the same in depth maybe a bit more. Then tapering to 1/2" (1.27 cm) nocks.

That bow above is drawn to 32´´. Dont be fooled, the guy is just tall. Anyway - how a silk on back helps prevent frets (which starts on belly)?
Thimo did decent elm bows. Its still the same. If it barelly floats you can go for warbows.
With 1 3/4´´ width, and around the same depth 82´´ long in elm which is good for warbow will give you more than 200#. In which case dont forget to post the bow.

J.

[D. Tiller]

Heck whats it called again when it breaks on the back? 82" long and 200# may be a bit out of my range at the moment. I was thinking more arround 80# to start and then heavier later.

[~JM~]

Any other pics?