Author Topic: low brace tiller, first bow  (Read 2338 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline kmshfa

  • Member
  • Posts: 7
low brace tiller, first bow
« on: December 06, 2010, 10:57:52 pm »
Here is my twisted first attempt at a bow.  It is a hackberry that I cut.  About 2" at the widest and 6' tip to tip.  A lot of the twist leaves as I draw the bow in my tiller stick.  I worked the high side down a bit.  Because this is my first attempt I would like a bit of input on tiller or anything else you see.  Thanks. 
As I said before, I split the stave too close to the base of the tree.  The tree was pretty much square there...when I split it there was a twist.  I decided to build anyway.  It feels good as long as I have the correct side up when I draw.  The other way tends to make the bow torque in my hand.
Thanks for your input.  I have learned a lot from this site. 

Offline aero86

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,263
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2010, 11:36:31 pm »
well, to me, looks like the right limb is doing more bending.  also, get the tips of the bow working more, if thats the style your going for.
profsaffel  "clogs like the devil" I always figured Lucifer to be more of a disco kind of guy.

Offline Cameroo

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,579
    • Cam's Stuff
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2010, 12:37:00 am »
I personally would leave the tips for now and get the mid-limbs working a bit more.  I would stay away from that slight hinge around 5 or 6 inches out from the fade on the right limb.  And once you get the limbs bending similar profiles, take some scrapes off the entire length of the left limb to get it to catch up to the right.  I don't take much meat off the tips until the bow is nearly complete, and leave the last 8 inches or so stiff so that you don't end up with a whip tillered bow.

There are many others on here much more qualified to give you advice, but that's mine.   ;D

Offline JonW

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,906
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2010, 12:57:33 am »
The tiller advice you have gotten sounds good to me. I will add that while I have not made a bunch of bows but I have made four from Hackberry and it will heat correct very easily. You can take that twist out no problem.

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,609
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2010, 01:08:27 am »
Very good advice so far.   The twist won't hurt anything and you can tiller out the twist as you are doing. The full draw pic is where you see true tiller anyway. A lot can change, for the better or worse, from now on.   I find that if I stand back and look at the overall shape through squinted eyes I can see the bend better. It eliminates the details so you can concentrate of the bend.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline LEGIONNAIRE

  • Member
  • Posts: 632
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2010, 01:09:55 am »
Same advice here. you may want to shorten a little to get more limb. Initially I thought you were developing a propeller twist but you said that is how it is so yea just remove more from the mid limbs and you shoud be fine. Take it slow and good luck
CESAR

LEGIONNAIRE ARCHERY

Offline kmshfa

  • Member
  • Posts: 7
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2010, 03:31:39 am »
thanks for looking and giving tips.  What do most of you guys use to tiller your bows?  I have been using an old card scraper.  Is this a good method?

Offline Cameroo

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,579
    • Cam's Stuff
Re: low brace tiller, first bow
« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2010, 08:42:45 am »
I use a rasp to radius the corners of the belly, and sandpaper to take the edge off the corners of the back, just to prevent lifting a splinter when tillering.  These steps are both done before the bow goes on the tiller stick or tree.  Then I progress to cabinet scrapers and sandpaper.  I like to get the belly cross-section put in as early as possible, and then I usually sand the belly a bit in between scrapping sessions to keep it close to what I want, so that I don't lose a bunch of weight with final sanding.  I'm sure more experienced bowyers skip the sanding all through the tillering, but that's what makes me comfortable.  It also forces me to slow down and analyze what I'm doing :)

So to answer you question, yes, scrapers are a great method.