1st try with a hazel nut stave

[Gordon]

I used to subscribe to the common notion that you need to exercise a bow a lot between wood removals. But now I just bend a bow enough to determine where I need to take more wood off. I find that I end up with a lot less set doing it that way.

[snag]

That's good to know Gordon. Thank you.

 This morning before work I scraped more off near the handle and through the fade outs and have it bending more near the handle. I get 35#@ 16".  Do I just continue taking wood off, keeping in mind to retain a proper arch, until I reach my draw length of 28"? At that point I guess I check the draw weight and see if I will need to heat treat the limbs to attain higher poundage...?

[Gordon]

I'd get a short string on it as soon as possible. Then I would fix any tiller isues that show themselves when the bow is at brace. Then I would begin drawing it an inch at a time until one of the following occur: 1) the limbs begin to take set or 2) a problem with the tiller begins to show or 3) you hit your target draw length

[Cameroo]

Good advice Gordon, but wouldn't it be good to also include 4) you hit your target draw weight?

[juniper junkie]

well, we finally lured you in looks like you have a good start. where is your center of the stave in relation to the placement of the handle? I agree with the others in that it looks like the bottom limb is way shorter than the top. good advise from gordon, get the short string on it and start tillering toward your intended draw. keep posting pics of your progress.

[Gordon]

Cameroo,

As long as the bow is not taking any set I don't worry about the final draw weight until I get within about 2" of my target draw length. If I've done everything right, it is then just a matter of a few long and even scraps to hit my weight and the particular tiller that I want.

[Del the cat]

Cameroo,

As long as the bow is not taking any set I don't worry about the final draw weight until I get within about 2" of my target draw length. If I've done everything right, it is then just a matter of a few long and even scraps to hit my weight and the particular tiller that I want.

WOW, You have a magic scraper that can put weight back on???     
Del

[Pappy]

I usually try and hit the weight I want ,say 50lbs at 18/20 inches then try and maintain the proper tiller as I move along ,inch by inch till I hit the draw length I want. Never pulling over that weight as I move along. I don't exercise as much as some but I do pull back out to where I was in between each scraping,8 or 10 times anyway. I also try and get a shot brace as soon as I can.
For long string I use string just long enough to go from tip to tip. As soon as I get the tips moving 8 or 10 inches I low brace it. When I get 12 or 15 inches of draw at low brace I get it to full brace and move on from there,long string and low brace won't look the same as full brace.
   Pappy

[snag]

Juniper, you guys were looking like you were having too much fun! Just had to give it a try.  I really appreciate all the help I've received so far.

Looking at the pictures of this bow it is kind of interesting. The first pic looks like the limb on top (which is actually the shorter limb or bottom limb) looks longer. The next two pics the other limb (the one without the knot) looks longer...?  Then you look at the one Acker posted the measurements on and B looks longer than A.   Just to clear this up I should lay a tape next to the bow on the floor and take a picture.

I placed the center of the bow 1" lower than the top of the 4" handle. Does that make sense? It has a 4" handle section and the center is 1" from one side, or the top limb side.

[Gordon]

WOW, You have a magic scraper that can put weight back on???

I wish! 

If I do everything right, a bow should be properly tillered and about 5-10 lbs over target weight by the time I'm within 2 inches of my target draw length. Then it is just a matter of evenly removing wood to hit the weight I want. If I'm still fixing things and messing around with the tiller at this point, the bow is likely to come in under weight and with more set than I like. That's all I'm trying to say.

[snag]

Here is the bow drawing to 19". It is at 30#.  What do you think so far?



The bow is 61" long, so center is 30.5". The handle is 4" in length, with the top of the handle
at 1' above center.

[George Tsoukalas]

Snag, just a bit more bending close to the fades out to mid limb. Is your handle bending? I've seen now that a lot of experienced bowyers, like Gordon, are not exercising between scraping sessions. My draw length is 26 in. If I want 50# I try to get the tiller right asap (LOL, right!) then get the weight to 40#ish at 20 inches and keep removing wood until I get 50# at 25 in. I work into 26 in as I shoot. I always exercise 20-30 times after each session to let the changes register. I'd rather have them register when I am in control than after the bow is tillered and I am wondering why the bow seems so light all of a sudden. To each his own. My bows are pretty much broken in when they come down from the tree for the final time. Jawge

[snag]

George, the handle isn't bending. Do I need to thin it from the belly side? I was hoping to keep some depth for a good fit in the hand. Maybe I won't be able to do that with this bow???  I haven't exercised it much between scraping.  I scrape a little, then put it on the tree, scrape some, back and forth. But I understand what you mean about being broken (hard to type that word in relation to making a selfbow! haha) in when you are done.

[snag]

Well I worked on it a bit more this morning before going to work.  Work sure gets in the way of fun! I have thinned up the handle a bit to get some bend  there. At 21" draw it is at 35#.  How do you know if a bow will continue to bend or break?!  I just don't understand how I will be able to know when I need to stop?  When I pulled it to 21" it felt like it could go more.  But I guess I am just scared to try...haha

[Ryano]

you need to get a short string on that.  Don't go any farther with the long string.