delamination of a hickory backed osage, repair advice

[hedgeapple]

When I braced this bow I heard a crack.  I found this problem.  This is just me 3rd glue up.  I used Weldwood Plastic Resin on all three the first failed slipping the hickory lam.  I didn't mix the Weldwood well with this one.  The second bow is still holding.  Is this one repairable?  I tried to force TB III into the crack and clamp it back.  It didn't hold.  TB III was probably not the best choice for gap filling glues.  Glues I have are the Weldwood and ton epoxy.  I'd love to hear you're advice.
Dave

[Pat B]

Does it go all the way through?  I would begin filling it with super glue, a little at a time until the void is filled. Fortunately it is in the handle area and not working. If you planned to cut in a shelf you may want to do all of that first so you can see the extent of the void.

[hedgeapple]

Thanks Pat,  I'm not cutting in a shelf, but I haven't cut out the fades yet, either.  I was thinking that maybe I should do that.  I think it goes all the way through.  I'll keep you posted after I cut out the fades.
Dave

[acker]

check out how deep it goes , is it only a few mm than use superglue as Pat said .
Is it deep than mix up some epoxy and warm it , warm epoxy is as liquid as water and you can fill up the delamination with it very easy .

acker

[Marc St Louis]

It's too late to use cyano glue, you already used TB3 and the 2 don't get along very well.  A good quality epoxy would work

[PatM]

The reason it popped apart there is because your fade is hinging. If you do get it bonded again you'll have to drastically thin from the fade out to ensure that area isn't working as much, if at all.
 Did you long string tiller at all or just brace it right away?

[adb]

I'd remove the backing strip, and redo it.

[Del the cat]

I'm with adb on this, if you get a v thin blade (or steel rule) in there and gently wiggle it, it will probably unzip the whole lam fairly easilly and you can clean up and start again.
I think any filling will always leave a discontinuity between the lod glue and the new.
Del

[Ryano]

Yep, your fade looks to short and abrupt, which probably caused the problem in the first place. Also it's never a good Idea to mix different kinds of glue. Wood glue sticks well to wood but not to other types of glue. Next time I'd sugest using titebond 3 or urac 185 for the whole glue up. Don't know how well weld wood holds up to bending and flexing......

[hedgeapple]

If I decide to remove the hickory stip and start over, would adding a thin power lam help solve the hinge problem?

[PatM]

It should but feather it well out the fade to make sure.

[hedgeapple]

Pat, that's what I WAS planning.  BUT NEVER MIND

I opened up the crack slow with exacto knive,  then went to a fillet knife.  The first limb unzipped perfectly,  BUT NOT the second one.  A 6" x 1/4 x 1/4" splinter gouge came out to the osage--terminal.  I do have a good hickory backing strip, though.  haha

I think I'm going to give laminate bow building a break for awhile.  I'm goin back to self bows. 

Thanks everyone for you help.

Dave

[Bullitt]

Dave, what has been said, and Go with resorcinol or urac!

[Alpinbogen]

I'd say a more gradual fade is needed there.  Next time, try Urac instead of wood glue.  It's just $5.50/pint or $10/qt. and their shipping is reasonable.

http://www.nelsonpaint.com/glue