Post Mortem, sort of

[Frode]

Hi all,
A while back I made hickory backed elm long bow for use in a renaissance fair;

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,19878.30.html

It wasn't quite authentic, not bending through the handle, but ended up being a nice smooth shooter, at around 38#.  Apparently it acquitted itself well during the fair, getting a respectable number of bulls eyes during performances, and "Robin Hood" was happy with it.

The owner brought to my attention that the elm had some scuffing at the arrow pass, which I said I'd be glad to remedy with an antler plate inset (by the way, despite what I was told by my antler source, antler does stink when you work it hard  ).

Anyway, upon receiving the bow, I see that it has taken about 2 inches of permanent set!  I wonder, does this represent a design/execution flaw (my first laminated bow), and/or, would having been strung all day in cold rainy weather had any effect?  I attempted to glue in a couple of inches of reflex, but it all tillered out.

The carnuba/orange/beeswax finish held up pretty well, but the finish feels fuzzy, like it needs a good finish sanding and sealing again.

As always, I appreciate your insights,

Frode

[adb]

Most people who don't make wooden bows, don't generally have a clue how to care for them. Leaving the bow at brace while not being shot (in less than ideal conditions) has not done it any favours.

[Badger]

  I went back and looked at the original photos, I like the tiller you used on that bow as it is light weight and very long, you could have come a tad more in closer to the handle with the bend and maybe avoided some of the set but regardless 2" is not that bad. The outside bending limbs on a long bow like that help to reduce hand shock and also make for better performance I feel. Steve

[Frode]

Thanks, guys!
@Badger, I remember someone telling me on one of my first bows that a little set sweetened the shooting, but it looked really odd on this one, for some reason.
@adb, my instructor told me early on I could take the measure of the shooter by watching them handle their bow at rest.  The ones who respected for their equipment would rest the lower tip on the top of their shoe if need be, and the others would stand with the tip in the dirt or mud, like a walking stick.  Kind of interesting to watch people, now.  Sometimes I cringe. 

Frode

[Del the cat]

I'd say 2 inches was fine.
To put it into context...
If you had a choice of the set or chrysals which would you prefer?
Please sir can I have the set

To build a longbow with no set, it probably needs a little backset built in when its laminated.
Del

[half eye]

Frode,
     The "fuzzies" have to be on the elm side of the bow, eh? The intertangled grain on elm will give the fuzzies a lot. Even prior to finishing a good dose of sanding sealer to harden the fuzz and then sanding will smooth it out, but may need to be repeated. After the defuzzing, the wax, grease, oil finish should keep it ok. I suspect that keeping it wet all day is what produced the "raised grain".

Having said all that I've steam bent a lot of elm which really raises the grain with no ill effect so dont believe it should be an issue. JMO
rich

[Frode]

@Del, since it was equal on both ends, would that make it a matched set?
@Rich, yup, it was mostly on the elm side, but not as bad as when I was making the bow.  That sealer sure works!

@adb, To be fair, I should say that "Robin Hood" actually did know how to care for his bow, and did his best to shelter it as the day went on.  He (and his bow) had to be "on" all day long, though, as he wandered the fair between shows, for the benefit of the visitors.  If I had it to do again, I'd build a duplicate "looks like" model that looked permanently strung for show, so the real bow could be unstrung and packed away dry.

Frode