backing

[mspink]

hey i was wondering what would be recommended for a high tension risk backing? What is easily accessible and cheap? Is there anything that i can find at hardware stores or is rawhide the way to go.. Also what are the techniques you use with whatever backing you mention? Its for a pyramid d style maple bow. It scares me when i pull it back.. Its pretty short drawing about 60 lbs @ 28 in.. Just want to be safe.

[mspink]

I almost forgot.. Will TB III work to glue on most backings? or will I have to get something else? Cant make Hide glue..

[half eye]

MSP,
     I have made several Maple bows lately, draw in excess of 70# (sent to other PA members) and I backed all of those with thin pieces (1/8" or less) of plain sawed & straight grained black walnut. I used Titebond II (just cause thats what I allways use). Haven't had any tension failures at all. Just keep the walnut thin or youre in for some more tillering.

I flatten and smooth both surfaces, use a hacksaw blade for a toothing plane, spread the glue to both surfaces with my finger, wrap the whole deal in stretch wrap (makes good glue joint edges) , wrap it all up with rubber bands-surgical tube-or such and set aside for at least 12hours....then unwrap and let the glue cure some more for another 12 hours.......shape and yer done. Maple with black walnut backing has been real good to me ever since I first tried it.

I'm sure other guys have better advice but this is what I use a lot of.....hope it helps ya out some.
rich

[mspink]

I've decided on goat rawhide.. Will this do? Will tbIII work for this? Any tips will be appreciiated.. Thanks

[Bevan R.]

I have a question for you half-eye...
The Black Walnut you use for backing, is it quarter-sawn or flat? I have never thought of using it as a backing but you got me thinking. (Always a hazardous occurrence with me  )

[half eye]

Bevan,
      Used both with equal results. Now-a-days I save the plain sawn just for backers and save the quartersawn for self bows.
rich

[Bevan R.]

Half-eye,
You do quarter-sawn selfbows? I tried that with elm one time and it blew up big time. Scared the water out of me, so I have not tried it again. Got some quarter sawn hackberry yesterday and was making plans on it. Think it would hold as a selfbow? The grain seems to be straight from both the face and side.

[half eye]

Bevan,
      Glad to help ya out all I can.....PM me, or email at rousseau.rd@att.net or telephone (231) 587-8542  Just dont want to highjack MSP's thread.
rich

[bucksbuoy]

Hey mspink I saw some goat rawhide for 20 bucks on ebay from someone named leather guy. Seemed like a descent price for 5 sq. ft. Let us know what you went with and how it turned out. Im doing some raw hide on my post ( says head em up ride em in) should have pics up in a couple days so keep your eyes peeled. I went with some cow hide from a dog chew and so far so good but you dont get much and its very thick but Im doing a short bow and just doing the handle section to cover a splinter so it works for me. My next bow Im gonna do goat hide nock to nock on a 7 foot maple board.  keep posting!
Jason

[JW_Halverson]

Ms Pink (hehe), antelope or plain old goat hide is some of the thinnest and strongest rawhide available.  There is a reason goathides are universally used for drumheads!  The dog chew rawhide is from big old beef cattle and often is the thick heavy stuff from bulls...not terribly suitable for bowmaking since it adds so much weight. 

I've backed with antelope for years and got a goat this last summer, I plan on dehairing and using this hide, too.  TB II works just fine, TB III works, too and has the added advantage of being even more waterproof.  I think you will be more than happy with it!

[Autumnbear]

I had good luck backing a red oak longbow with deer rawhide. I bought a "rawhide scraps" box from Centralia hides and furs for around $20, There's enough rawhide to back 12 or so bows. The pieces were a tad small so I cut the into 3 2ft  strips, tapered them on the back and glued it with TB2. Some of the pieces are a little thick but you can always sand them while they are dry to a desired thickness, Since hey are tapered about a half inch I sanded them a bit with a fine sand paper so smooth it out.
Not really pretty but tough as nails.