Author Topic: Snake backing questions  (Read 5621 times)

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Offline crooketarrow

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #15 on: October 22, 2010, 01:17:44 pm »
    Any white wood glue will work.Tiebond 111 works best I think.
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Offline majsnuff

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #16 on: October 23, 2010, 12:16:29 pm »
Before backing that bow, take a small peice of your snake skin and do a test glue on scrap wood. I picked up a tip on here that I use now, it was to stain the back of the bow black before adding the snake skin. I did a set of arrows with snake skin wrap cresting, used the magic marker on some and the rest just left the wood natural. You wouldn't believe the difference in pattern definintion. Oh yea, I have used hide glue, and TB II and III all worked fine as long as I got all the air bubbles out.

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Offline HoBow

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #17 on: October 23, 2010, 01:10:14 pm »
Will darkening the back have work better with light skins versus darker skins?
Jeff Utley- Atlanta GA

Offline bowmo

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #18 on: October 23, 2010, 01:10:52 pm »
I've done probably 40 or so bows with snake skins. I use Titebond 2 watered down, with it being around 75% glue and 25% water. Size the back of the bow with a coat of the watered down glue and as its drying take the skins or skin (however even if its one skin I cut it in half so I can work on just one limb at a time) and get them wet. I usually get some hose water and a bowl and let them sit for about a minute. Then working fairly quickly I add another coat of the watered down glue to one bow limb and to the underside of one of the snake skins and starting from the handle I lay the skin down over the whole limb. Then starting from the handle to the tip again I go along and center the pattern to whatever snakes or curves the bow may have by tugging on the skin that hangs over the edge, pulling in out and downward manner. You have to keep messing with it for a about 10 to 15 mins as the glue sets up, I use the flat part of palm to kind of lightly 'squeegee' out and excess glue or air bubbles, again working from handle to tip. I never have used the wrap with ace bandage method and think its a terrible idea. Of course after that you go on to the next limb. When both limbs are done and the glue has dried for at least 24 hours I use a fine file to take the excess skin off the edges, working only as wide as the file at a time. Meaning you don't do long sweeping strokes like you do with wood as it will tend to tear the skin. After they're on and trimmed I use a gummy eraser to rub off all the scale platelets that cover each individual scale, you can see where they are since they darken the actual color of the skin and pattern of the snake. After that you're ready for finish. I have never messed up a skin job or ran into any problems with this method.

On a side note, I feel that snake skins for sure can add more than just looks, camo, and weather proofing to a bow. Just a coat of wood glue alone adds some splinter lifting protection to a bow, not to mention that many of the bullsnake skins I've used are fairly thick and a lot like goat skin as well as using python skin which is thicker than deer hide. Hope I helped.


dan
« Last Edit: October 23, 2010, 01:14:19 pm by bowmo »

Offline NTD

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #19 on: October 23, 2010, 01:29:05 pm »
I've sent out some boa and python skins that would qualify as rawhide protection.
Nate Danforth

Offline mullet

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #20 on: October 23, 2010, 08:20:01 pm »
 If you've ever skinned a Python or Boa, you'll know what Nate is talking about. There is no grabbing and just pulling it off like a rattlesnake.
Lakeland, Florida
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Offline NTD

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #21 on: October 23, 2010, 10:10:58 pm »
I talked to a guy with an 18 foot reticulated python in his freezer for me.  I'll pick it up when I've got the ambition to skin it.  Not looking forward to that one and am still trying to figure where I can tack up a 20'+ skin to dry....
Nate Danforth

Offline ken75

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #22 on: October 23, 2010, 11:48:41 pm »
i would have to second the skins can be protection theory, and nate i have a 24 foot shed wall it would fit on ;D

Offline NTD

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #23 on: October 23, 2010, 11:55:20 pm »
Ken LOL if you'd pay the shipping to send the whole dang snake to you I'd probably think about doing it  ;D  I'm probably just going to buy some cheap OSB and frame up a Large board to do it.  The only other problem I see with a skin this big is there might not be much pattern on bow sized pieces.  I'll sure have a heck of carcass to bait coyotes with  >:D
Nate Danforth

Offline mullet

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #24 on: October 24, 2010, 12:00:43 am »
 Nate, I'd cut it into 6' sections and then tack it up. By the way, I might be getting some legal gator hides.
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

Offline NTD

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #25 on: October 24, 2010, 12:03:53 am »
I thought about that Eddie but something in me just wants to see what this thing will look like full length ;D  Thanks for the heads up on the gators!  I will keep that in mind ;D
Nate Danforth

Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Snake backing questions
« Reply #26 on: October 24, 2010, 12:15:34 am »
Bring it to Texas, I have a 30' wall in the shop.  Be happy to dry it for you.  ;)

George
St Paul, TX