GULP! New HBC R/D

[mamba]

Is this bow hickory backed cedar?

[Pat B]

Ray, It is hickory backed black cherry.    Pat

[Minuteman]

I think to be safe I'll start scraping on the inner most non-deflexed part.Inner mid limb.Then see what it tells me.
 The deflex  has plenty of movement in it still and the way the tips acted on the last bow and how quickly the upper limb developed that hinge I'm thinking the cherry is kinda running on the edge of giving up just about all the time.
 I've got the reflexed part bending some and it feels like it'll hinge pretty easy if I try to get too much more bend in it too soon.
 I dunno, I'm gonna err on the side of caution if at all possible. I sure do want this pece of wood to become a bow somethin' fierce!
 Thanks for the help so far folks, more pics to come!
 Chris

[tom sawyer]

Your long string is too long.  You want it just as long as the bow, no longer.  Adn even then, a long string makes the outer tips look stiffer than they really are.  So you really want to work that mid-limb.  As soon as you get a reasonably smooth bend to the equivalent of brace height, I would string it briefly and see what it really looks like.

[Minuteman]

First pic is about 3 1/2" or 4" brace height.
 Second one is  drawn to 13" and 28#.
 Right limb (upper) stiff in the inner third?
 They both seem a little stiff on the inside to me.
 Whattya all think?
  I dunno what it is but taking a picture of it and seeing it on the computer sure seems to make it easier to spot problems.

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[Justin Snyder]

Look at the lines at the tips. The right limb is bending farther than the left. You need to get them bending the same distance.  I would remove the wood from the area between the marks on the inner limb. (excluding fades)  Justin

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[Minuteman]

 So NOW that I got 'em bending mostly even I should worry about how far each limb is bending?
 Justin if I take wood off both limbs won't they just keep bending the same distance ?How will removing wod from the areas you suggested change the distance the limb travels? I need to make that connection.
 I saw the stiff spots you arrowed for me, so I guess I ain't as bad off as I'd thought!
 More Pics tomorrow.
 Chris

[Justin Snyder]

I would remove it only from the left limb until they are close. Or remove 5 scrapes from the right limb and 10 from the left. Did I ever mention EXERCISE THE LIMBS A LOT. Justin

[Minuteman]

Well I did like ya said, Took some from the right and 2x some from the left. And exercised it a bunch 30 or more times after every wood removal. Heres what I've come to'
 Its at 24"( from 4 1/2" brace height) and ~38-39 # Shootin for 50 or at least high 40's.
 Left limb looks pretty good as far as I can see. the right one just got away from me somehow. I couldn't get the left limb to come around enough tomatch the right. Right limbwas 2" longer than te left so I cut off the nock ( about 5/8" ) and recutthe nocks hoping that would stiffen it up some and keep it from bending so far. Didn't seem to help a thing.
 Is there a chance of getting 45# outta this thing? What do ya normally gain in the last few inches of draw, 2#/"
 If I could get 8 more pounds in the last 4 " I'd be happy, that and even it up a bit.
 This tillerin stuff is rough.


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[Justin Snyder]

How far apart are the lines on the tillering tree? Is that weight and the picture before or after you piked the bow 5/8". Do you specifically want the bow to have one limb longer than the other.  I am quite sure you can get 6# in 4 inches. But the tiller needs fixed. Justin

[Minuteman]

The lines are 1 1/2" apart. The weight/drawlength info  and pic are after I shortened the upper limb.So what now.? Remove some on the left limb, mid limb area... try to get it looking more like the right one ,Right?
 Does making the limb bend more in the middle make the limb tip travel more or less? Is it a matter of draw weight / limb or does where the limb bends affect how far the tip travels?

[DanaM]

At least its still in one piece, maybe I shouldn't say that probably cursed ya now.

DanaM

[huntersim]

Chris,

take this with a grain of salt. I would take quite a bit off the inner limbs (relatively speaking). Then I would go ahead and take it to a 6" brace. Maybe draw it to 18" on the tree and see where your at. Weight goes fast with a reflex deflex. Thats why I like to floor tiller them, and then go right to a short string with a low brace. String em heavy.

Get the limbs bending smooth, then worry more about the way they bend with each other.

the limb on the left needs to move a little more near the handle. But first get a smooth bend in each limb so they look close.

You can see the transition area that I was telling you about. It can be a pain.

[Minuteman]

43# @ 25"with a lil < 6" brace.Took some meat off the inner third of the left limb. Seemed to help even things up.
 If I can get 5 more #s after final tiller and sanding I'll be one happy camper. I know the right limb is stiff right outside the fades but if I fix it it'll make ,... hey wait I want a little positive tiller right? The limbs are even ( measured from the belly to the string either side of the handle) so If I get just a leeeeeetle more bend in the right limb, inner third that'll weaken the limb a lil  and give me a little positive tiller right?
 EDIT;
 Well looking at the pic again it didn't even it up quite as much as I'd thought.It did geta little more bend in the left limb mid section and the tips are closer to the same. Damn, these digital cameras don't lie!
 I think we can pull it off guys. What would you do to it? I mean other than not let the limbs get uneven in the first place.

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[Justin Snyder]

Hold off just a little on the positive tiller there Chris. If one limb is longer than the other, the positive tiller isn't necessary. If your at 43#@25" your in pretty good shape.  Take care of the stiff area. Then work the left limb to get it bending the same distance. Justin