Main Discussion Area > Bows

that first straight edge

(1/3) > >>

billmac:
You guys who rough out your bows with machetes, sharp stones, and your teeth can probably stop reading.  I'd like to find a reliable way to cut my staves down to about 2x2 inches, into a nice square cross section.  But how to do that with a quarter log stave beats me, apart from taking it to a saw mill. (obviously I want to keep the outer growth ring as one side, otherwise I'd just get boards)  One straight edge is all you need and the other two will come easily.  Does anyone else worry about this?  I have a 10" radial arm saw and a 14" bandsaw.

Thanks,

Bill

tom sawyer:
Can't you do that with your band saw?  Once you freehand one corner off the pie (keeping the "crust" side on the talbe and doing your best not to let it rock which will cause the blade to bend and be ruined), you have a flat-enough surface to run the tip of the pie off, and then the other side.

tom sawyer:
For that matter, you really don't want the first edge to tbe straight, so much as for it to follow the grain of the split (assuming you didn't cheat and kerf).  Then you can straighten with heat once you are near dimensions.

Pat B:
I usually pop a chalk line down the center if possible and measure on either side, out each limb, the shape of the bow. I don't try to cut my staves square or rectangular.   Pat

billmac:
Tom Sawyer,  You raise a good question.  I'd rather (I sound like I'm experienced don't I?) would rather have a straight bow than follow the grain unless that is a major no-no.  I know alot of people do it, but it usually seems be be with sapling staves.  Obviously if the grain is way off then I would be in trouble, but I'd rather go for symmetrical, at least until I'm more experienced.

To answer your first question, yes I can eyeball it on the bandsaw, but keeping it from rocking is not so easy.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page