Main Discussion Area > Arrows

It's arrow time.

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Hillbilly:
Yeah, 3/8" is pretty big unless you're shooting a 75# bow. Most of my hardwood shoot arrows are 5/16" for mid-50's bow weights. I only draw 26" though.

StanM:
I'll try to post a link to a build-a-long that I did a little bit ago.  I hope it works.

Stan

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=043864

billmac:
So do you folks adjust spine on the bare shafts, and then again when the nocks and points are on?  I assume the point at least alters the spine.

Also, what end tapering dimensions do you use if using self nocks and your own trade points?  I assume that it is different than with glue on nocks and points.

Thanks again

Pat B:
Bill, The standard for testing spine on arrows is with an arrow cut 28" then placed on a tester with uprights spaced at 26" apart, and a 2# weight hung in the center. The standard is also with a point that weighs 125gr.  Any thing under or over 28" you add(or subtract) 5# per inch of length. All of this is done on a bare shaft(not necessary).
  For trade points, I use the same taper as with a glue on point and slot it to accept the trade point. I leave the nock end as is, cut in the self nock and trim that area to be comfortable then wrap with thread set in glue.  Pat

jamie:
bill if you have the large dowel cutter it should have the 5/16th collet included. get some hard maple with straight grain. it averages between 40-45lbs for a 5/16th shaft. as for the taper grinding would be best but a tapertool from an archery supply like 3 rivers would work.

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