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It's arrow time.

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billmac:
Well, Justin and I turned out our first bow this weekend.  Got a string made and shot it a few times with arrow I have for my compound.  So now I guess we have to turn our attention to arrows, so I have a bunch of questions.

I have the 3/8" dowel maker from Lee Valley.  I'll probably start with some pine or spruce 2x4s for shafts.  3/8 is a little large so I'll probably barrel taper to reduce weight and adjust the spine by sanding the center of the shaft.

For barrel tapering, is there a particular angle that is recommended?

I'll probably start with some glue on field points and nocks.  What's a good, inexpensive glue?  What taper should I use for them (assuming the vendor doesn't specify)?

Anyone have plans for a good homemade fletching jig?

Any other tips are welcome.  Thanks.  Bill

Pat B:
Bill, The taper for the nock and points are 11deg and 5deg respectively but self nocks are easy and don't cost anything but time and a little thread. A good glue for points and nocks is Duco, available everywhere and cheap. Works for fletching also...depending on your arrow finish. I also use hoy melt archery glue.
   I have never done a barrol taper but I think the length of the taper is easier to figure than the degree of taper. For your arrows, use the straightest stock with the straightest grain you can find.
   I have a JoJan fletching jig but have hand fletched with good success. Someone, a year or so ago, had a small gizmo to aid in hand fletching. Might have been Jamie or Jamie.  It is a piece of cardboard or simular stuff with a hole in the center and slits cut where the fletchings go. Simple to make and easy to work.   Pat

Dustybaer:
yep, here it is: http://www.primitiveways.com/fletching_jig.html

Pat B:
Thanks Marius. That's the one!   Pat

Justin Snyder:
Barrel tapering is larger diameter in the center of the shaft and smaller on both ends. This will increase the spine of a shaft.  If you wand to decrease the weight and spine you either need to taper front to back so the extra weight is up front or decrease the whole shaft.  Look at the plate that Dana made for making shafts. He sent me one and it is really cool.  It will reduce the shaft by 1/32" at a time. You could reduce the shafts to a more appropriate start size.  http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1854.0.html     
I have been experimenting with his shaft maker and when I get a little more time I will post more info on how I'm using it.   Justin

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