Scared now!

[wood]

I have made several sapling bows for kids from 45 lbs. on down but only one from a roughed out stave that I finshed many years ago and finally rawhide backed when the string follow got really bad. I have started on a hickory bow that I cut down with an ax (didn't want to haul my chainsaw but wished I did). This is my first post here and according to what I've read, spliting it while green was the thing to do. After splitting it developed a nice even reflex in both limbs, however it also developed an even curve to the right (or left depending on which end is up). I am currently clamping it (in between working) sideways to a 2x4 that has a curve cut out. I have managed to get half the curve worked out as it dries. After seeing people's posts where the bow has blown, I thought to try straightening it like a green shoot arrow instead of trimming it straight. The potential bow is pignut hickory and I was wondering if anyone has tried this method while the wood was curing and what their results were. I don't have a steam box so the only way of heating it is with a paint striping gun. All the blowups posted have scared me into straightening the bow while green. All the sapling bows I have made were made from cured/seasoned staffs where twisting or bending were not a problem. Help!

[JackCrafty]

I've used a heat gun on green hickory and it works fine.  Just don't get it too hot and bend gradually.  Normally, wet heat (steam) is used on wet wood and dry heat on dry wood but hickory is pretty tough...especially pignut.

I've found that hickory keeps its shape better when worked (heated, straightened, etc.) when green.  JMO

[wood]

The clamping of the green stave seems to have worked. Originally it was bent about 10 degrees off center.



The rest of the tree.

[wood]

Okay, I'm a little farther along and have been rereading B.B.1 and past issues of PA and I am more confused than ever. I would like a bow that is 45# at 28in. I prefer short bows because I'm only 5'6 in. Also I hunt in thick brush at times. With the wood being hickory is it preferable to sinew back? What is the shortest lengh I could get away with? The stave is a little over 2 inches wide and and a bit over an inch thick. Should I go with pyramid at the ends or wide and flat. Sinew back or not? The stave has a nice reflex to it.

[walkabout]

really it is up to you what design to use, although hickory likes to take some set so a wider limb is better, although if you carefully tiller narrower can be done. following the equation for draw length to bow length, you should be able to make it just over 61 inches, but im sure that someone who has more experience can tell you just how much shorter you can go. if you end up making it 60" or shorter, you could sinew back it but im not sure it would be neccesary. if you make it bend through the handle you could make it shorter still.

[KenH]

My understanding is that sinewing a 60" bow is somewhat of a waste of sinew.  Beyond a certain distance the mass of the sinew and resultant sluggishness counteracts  any draw weight gains you might have.

With hickory I should think you could get 45# @ 27-28" draw out of a 54-56" bow that is 2" wide.  I just posted pix of an Elm Steppe bow that is 54" TtT and I'm getting close to 40# at 27".    Look at some of the Eastern tribal bows that Half-Eye has posted here for short, powerful bow designs.   Elsewhere I saw a 37" PNW style Paddle Bow, sinew-backed Juniper close to 3" wide,  drawing 55# @ 22" draw and intended as the maker's new hunting bow.  Can't beat those short, wide tribal bows, with powerful short draw lengths,  for hunting in brush or from a stand.

[Frode]

Okay, I'm a little farther along and have been rereading B.B.1 and past issues of PA and I am more confused than ever. I would like a bow that is 45# at 28in. I prefer short bows because I'm only 5'6 in. Also I hunt in thick brush at times. With the wood being hickory is it preferable to sinew back? What is the shortest lengh I could get away with? The stave is a little over 2 inches wide and and a bit over an inch thick. Should I go with pyramid at the ends or wide and flat. Sinew back or not? The stave has a nice reflex to it.

Wood,
I just finished up a second hickory pyramid bow that was 58" ntn, 2" wide at the fades, down to around 1/4" at the tips.  Although it was low draw weight at the request of its owner, it could have easily done 40-45# (half the work was getting it down to 30#  ).  The first one (same specs) was a 40 pounder, and it could've gone higher too.  I backed both of them with linen, partly for extra peace of mind, and partly for decorative reasons.  Both ended up light and easy to maneuver, and fairly fast, considering my inexperience level.  Hickory seems to be pretty tough stuff!
Mostly, though, what KenH said!

Frode

[wood]

58 to 60 inches would be about the same length as the rawhide backed hickory I am using now and this one is basically to replace it as it has a bit of string follow. The rawhide upped the poundage but the limb drag is annoying. String follow is what I want to avoid and as this has a natural reflex (the old one didn't) I might be in better shape. I do prefer a snappy bow and have made several bend through the handle bows that shoot great but I keep giving them away to kids. There is a really thin stave left over I might do that with. So the consensus is that backing isn't necessary for 58 inches 2 inch wide fading to an inch at the nocks with a bit of a recurve?