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Lam. bows/ what kinda clamps??

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Gordon:
I used a combination of 4" spring clamps and c-clamps to setup my last bow. I was pretty happy with the result. I'm surprised that the spring clamps are not big enough for you - how thick are the limbs?

Minuteman:
The 4" clamps looked like they would have worked ok on boo but on a flat hik backing it just didn't look like they would hold things flat to the edge. I could have cut little blocks to spread out the pressure but there was only 7/8" of jaw opening to work in. That doesn't leave alotta room to put in a block, so I sent them back.I think a 6" clamp woulda worked fine, wider jaws and more jaw opening for pressure blocks.
  I'm gonna try out Justin's rubber band method soon. Gonna build a Torges style post-form today.
 

Pat B:
I have noticed on hickory backings that the edges curl up when water based glue is used. Thats where I have problems. A good pressure strip helps. I use a piece of sheet metal for this. 
   I like spring clamps better than screw clamps. I have had screw clamps loosen up in the hot box, I guess as the moisture of the glue exaporates and the wood components shrink. Spring clamps keep pressure on the work even if the glue up shrinks a bit. I have never been able to get good glue lines. I may start trying rubber bands or inner tube bands and see how that works for me. I usually don't do many lam bows but I know I will make a few in the future.   Pat

venisonburger:
I like the idea of the carpet felt I'm gonna try that, I forgot, I buy a roll of plastic wrap, and cut it in half with a razor knife so it's only half as wide, then I roll it along the top of the form, then place my lams on top then bring the plastic wrap over on each side so the glue is contained inside before I rubber band it. I also use some cheap spring clamps in the center since you have to pull it down so far.
VB

episaacs:
I use foam rubber cut into sections to fit between the boo nodes, between the backing and the form.

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